Hide restaurant review - London, UK
Devotees of Ollie Dabbous were ‘surprised’ when the renowned restaurateur closed his eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant Dabbous last summer. Much to their relief (and ours), Dabbous has joined forces with Hedonism Wines to open a new restaurant, Hide, located opposite Green Park.
The restaurant’s ‘holistic’ interiors are the result of a collaborative effort between Hedonism’s Evgeny Chichvarkin and Tatiana Fokina with interior design firm These White Walls and architectural consultancy Lusted Green. Set over three floors – dubbed ‘Below’, ‘Ground’ and ‘Above’ – Hide is connected by a spiralling tree-like staircase that unfurls through the restaurant. The show-stopping centrepiece of the space was designed by Atmos, who used laminated oak to create the sinuous, twisting structure intricately formed by hand over moulds in Poland
These White Walls responded to the brief with a concept based on the theme of ‘dwelling’. To wit, the light-filled space is served well by an earthy palette of wooden floors, oak furnishings, bronze mirrors, aged brass accents. The London design studio also commissioned three female artists to create site-specific installations, use ‘Hide as hidden’ as curatorial cue. In the upstairs restaurant, Rachel Dein has created a floral mural; while The Clorofilas conjured a moss installation for the vanities in the ladies’ room.
Downstairs in the Below bar, guests can indulge in a selection of Hedonism’s finest and rarest spirits, along with a cocktail menu from mixology maestro Oskar Kinberg. The mezzanine area Above treads a high dining line closer to the original Dabbous, with tasting menus and set lunches. If Hide’s encyclopaedic wine list isn’t enough, guests can also order from Hedonism’s 6,500-strong bin via iPad – making the restaurant’s wine offering the most comprehensive in the UK.
The ground floor offers an à la carte menu for lunch and dinner, as well as afternoon tea and breakfast. The focus is on fresh, seasonal fare sourced from small famers and suppliers (the charcoal baked flatbreads are a must, as is the Herdwick lamb cooked over the embers, violet mustard, aubergine and smoked kelp). An open bakery will also serve freshly baked breads, cakes and viennoiseries.