45 Jermyn St restaurant review - London, UK

When The Fountain first opened its doors 60 years ago, it was the talk of London not only for being the first restaurant to bring a soda fountain over from Canada but also for its deliciously decadent knickerbocker glories.

Sadly, over the years, the eatery–which is located on the corner of Jermyn and Duke Streets– slowly deteriorated, despite its many interior updates, becoming more of a thoroughfare for visitors to Fortnum & Mason, the iconic department store it is housed in.

Now, the restaurant has been reworked once again, this time by local firm Martin Brudnizki Design Studio who have reinstated the staid interiors to its glamorous heyday. Making the most of the room’s decorative Edwardian features, the entrance’s custom-made revolving door leads to an intimate open-plan room furnished with plush rosewood tables, parquet flooring, cosy booths and a dramatic marble bar. It is however, the bold burnt orange colour – perfectly matching the Fortnum & Mason turquoise blue – that commands passers-by to take a second look.

The menu, by head chef Lee Streeton is modern London with fuss free classics from Dover sole to smoked salmon. For those feeling flush, there is a caviar trolley and in honour of its previous incarnation, two soda fountains serves up bespoke sodas for grown ups.