Just when you thought London’s appetite for Italian dining was waning, along comes another new restaurant serving tiramisu as big as it can get. In the heart of Marylebone, Nina offers an intriguing equation: sun-soaked Amalfi recipes, Milanese panache-drenched interiors, and a dash of industrial cool – because, really, what could go wrong? The energy at the Pachamama Group’s latest opening is electric, and London’s crowd is already smitten. One month in, reservations are a hot commodity.
Wallpaper* dines at Nina, London
The mood: nonna goes to Berghain
More often than not in London, when a menu is dotted with pasta icons and coastal favourites, the interiors follow suit, attempting to channel the spirit of the seaside – as if to distract diners from the city’s fickle weather. Nina, on the other hand, embraces the moodiness of a British rainy day and pairs it with the edgier design flair found in Milan’s southeastern corners.
Against a palette of soft beiges, wabi-sabi-inspired walls reveal raw brickwork that collides with a desaturated leopard-print wallpaper. A glass block subtly divides one of the main dining areas from the mirrored bar and its gleaming stainless steel back bar. Silver accents and quirky artworks – all selected by project and art director Lunara Bramley-Fenton, who also dressed Bottarga – complement the glass and steel plates the dishes arrive on. Underfoot, a warm wooden floor grounds the space, gently reminding diners that they haven’t wandered into Berghain.
The food: perfectly executed traditional flavours
It must be said: twirling spaghetti to the rhythm of electronic beats is a new experience. In a way, the food at Nina isn’t transportive – it’s fully aware of its chic surroundings and perfectly in tune with London’s current obsession with raw plates. The menu, developed by the group’s creative director, Yaroslava Malkova, isn’t extensive, but it’s devoted to exquisite renditions of Italian favourites, led by the executive chef, Tzoulio Loulai. There are no specials here; each dish promises quality. The house focaccia with parmesan butter sets the tone, grilled to perfection and unmistakably artisanal.
Don’t make the mistake of ordering the anchovy bruschetta with semi-dried tomato paste immediately after – or maybe do. After all, we’re not at Nina to count calories. Pasta arrives confidently: bottarga linguine, cacio e pepe, spaghetti al pomodoro – to name just a few. After that, opt for a meaty main, or skip ahead to dessert with the boozy tiramisu al cucchiaio or the stracciatella burnt cheesecake. There’s no smoking indoors, but the Marlboro spritz – aperitivo, prosecco, and cherry – is a solid nicotine substitute.
Nina is located at 18 Thayer St, London W1U 3JY, UK; nina.london
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