This new Los Angeles restaurant is a mischievous blend of dive bar and 'psychedelic honky tonk'

The former Gardens of Taxco, a traditional Mexican ranch-style staple on West Hollywood's Harper Avenue, has been transformed into what owner Max Marder describes as ‘a dive bar meets a psychedelic honky-tonk’ or ‘an alternative, futuristic version of the Old West’: Marvito. Expect 1970s tunes, '80s-style margaritas and a setting that feels both nostalgic and mischievously new.

Wallpaper* dines at Marvito, Los Angeles

The mood: rustic saloon with a classic rock soundtrack

Marvito began as a pop-up at Marder’s other restaurant, the much-praised neighbourhood French-style bistro and natural wine bar Marvin on Beverly Boulevard. The permanent concept for Marvito took shape while Marder was listening to a lot of Grateful Dead and tasting small-batch, additive-free tequilas. Those same tequilas now line the back bar, joined by a high-fidelity sound system powered by a MacIntosh amp inspired by the Dead’s legendary ‘Wall of Sound’, and an old-school rock record collection.

Cosy black tufted-leather booths glowing beneath vintage amber-glass pendant lamps set the tone: rustic, a bit louche and deeply lived-in. The decor includes Western artwork, two portrait drawings of Steely Dan (a favourite on the vinyl rotation, especially ‘Glamour Profession’, which also inspired the decor theme), MacIntosh and Dodgers posters, and a Peter Alexander painting of the LA skyline.

The food: All your favourite Mexican-American comfort dishes

The Mexican-American menu by co-owner and chef Ricky Moreno (Marvin and Capo) pays homage to LA classics, including crispy shrimp tacos with the salsa brushed on the outside of the shell, topped with sliced avocado. Beef tacos are another crowd pleaser, alongside shrimp enchiladas and chicken piccata. For a lighter bite, there’s tortilla soup finished with crema, or a bright-and-tart Hamachi aguachile. Larger-format plates include slow-cooked carnitas and rich chile Colorado.

Sharing options are generous: barbecue baby-back ribs lacquered in a sweet-and-spicy borracha sauce, or a whole grilled fish with pico de gallo and olives. Drinks bridge past and future. You can still order a ‘secret-ingredient’ margarita, though the new signature Marvito Martini made with Plymouth gin, Dolin dry vermouth, a Castelvetrano olive and a lemon twist feels like a slick step forward.

Marvito is located at 1113 N Harper Ave, West Hollywood, CA 90046, United States.