Who could have imagined that indulging in fried chicken could transcend the realms of fast food convenience to become a quasi-spiritual experience? But Gracious Hospitality Management, known for its Michelin-starred Manhattan Korean steakhouse Cote, seems to have unlocked the secret with its latest offering, Coqodaq, in Manhattan’s Flatiron district.
Discover Coqodaq’s wings of desire
Designed by the Rockwell Group, this ‘cathedral of fried chicken’ – which also happens to offer America’s largest champagne selection to wash it all down with – welcomes sybarites on a sensory odyssey that commences with a bespoke hand-washing station equipped with luxurious Hermès hand soap (despite the glamorous surrounds, this is still finger food so make sure cleanliness is next to godliness).
Theatre lights on either side of the walkway add additional drama, while a mirrored wall creates an infinity effect
Coqodaq back room banquette
Guests then step into a cavernous, art nouveau-inspired space, adorned with a rich colour palette and sumptuous textures. The 190-seat dining area features green leather banquettes, illuminated by glass and bronze ‘ghost’ arches that cast a glow on diners and food.
A mirrored wall at one end creates a dramatic infinity effect, while plaster wall panels have been treated with a contemporary-looking crackled texture in a subtle reference to the crisp skin of fried chicken. A seductive black soapstone and tambour wood bar runs alongside one side, backed by a luminous liquor shelf, and there’s also an informal dining area with a communal table, reserved for walk-ins, which connects the main dining room with the outdoor space.
Entry handwashing station at Coqodaq, featuring Hermès hand soap
‘The material palette was driven by a desire to surround diners in an envelope of warmth, creating a joyful place to be at any time,’ says Rockwell Group’s founder and president David Rockwell. ‘Simon Kim [CEO and founder of Gracious Hospitality Management] and I believe that the most important thing about restaurants is how they ritualise coming together for a shared, celebratory experience – and Coqodaq provides the perfect template for that.’
Plaster wall panels in the informal dining area were treated with a crackled effect in a subtle reference to the crisp skin of the fried chicken
Coqodaq front lounge
Heading up the kitchen is executive chef Seung Kyu Kim, whose Korean-American credentials mirror the cultural fusion celebrated at Coqodaq. Working alongside a world-class culinary team, Seung Kyu set out to envision a menu that would elevate the simplicity of crispy fried chicken to new heights, pairing it with accompaniments, such as pickled seasonal vegetables, or offering it alongside an indulgent raw bar comprising oysters, fish tartare and Petrossian caviar.
The Bucket List set menu comprises a choice of two types of fried chicken with various glazes (served, with dipping sauces, in a ceramic bucket designed by star ceramicist Jono Pandolfi), a perilla seed noodle dish, and a roasted chicken consommé with red ginseng.
Coqodaq back dining room
Complementing the dynamic menu is sommelier Victoria James’ well-curated wine list, which features more than 400 rare and exclusive champagnes, while the offering of ‘coqtails’ includes a Boricha, a blend of watermelon juice, lime, coconut water and Irish whiskey, and a Coqodaq-uiri, featuring rum, pisco, lime and hallabong (a Korean orange-like fruit).
Coqodaq bar
Coqodaq wine room
coqodaq.com, rockwellgroup.com
A version of this article appears in the April 2024 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today
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