There’s something incredibly surreal about tucking into a dripping-with-jus Kobe and Black Angus burger, literally in the shadow of a hulking, abandoned steelworks refinery; but, then again, restaurateur Riccardo Giraudi has never been one to play it by the book.
His new eatery – a sly portmanteau of ‘beef’ and ‘bistro’ – is located literally a few metres from the border of France and Luxembourg, in an area that just happens to be in the middle of an ambitious redevelopment that is turning a brownfield site into a scientific and cultural centre.
In the midst of all this repurposed industrial flotsam, the Monaco-based architects Humbert & Poyet have created a sophisticated, lightly spacious room that is lined with bold black and white striped awnings, oversized parquet flooring, bold brassy fixtures and exposed piping that hints at the area’s past but without overplaying its hand.
Of course, all this is a prelude to the menu. Vegetarians and company shouldn’t bother showing up at Beeftro. Yes, there are the obligatory green standards – quinoa and peas salad, and kale salad, the latter spiked with lemon zest – but beef rules the joint. Specifically, Black Angus from Rangers Valley, Creekstone Farms, and Rioplatense. Even the ravioli is ID’d with Kobe short ribs.
And if, after all that chest-baring protein, there’s still room for dessert, don’t pass up the chocolate soufflé infused with caramel and yuzu.