Housed in an old pickle factory, next to the future home of Toronto’s MOCA, Drake Commissary is the latest addition to emerge from Jeff Stober’s Drake empire, which started 13 years ago with the Drake Hotel and now includes a restaurant in the financial district, an inn in Prince Edward County and five general stores. Located on the rail path that connects two of the cities hippest spots – Parkdale and Junction Triangle – the Commissary is a hybrid restaurant, bar, bakery and larder that serves as the hub for the brand’s culinary operations, providing all the breads and sauces for each of the outposts while churning out out fresh food all day.
Inspired by his brief stint at San Francisco’s Bar Tartine, chef Jonas Grupiljonas focuses on slow fermentation and fresh ingredients, making everything – including sourdoughs, smørrebrød, patisserie, confectionary, pickling, kombucha, house-cured charcuterie, pasta, gelato and preserves – from scratch.
And like the food, designer John Tong of +Tongtong Studio, wanted the interiors to cross at ‘the intersection of handcrafted and high production’, resulting in a modern-yet-utilitarian wood and metalwork look, inspired by a pop-up Prouvé prefab in New York; there are green industrial lights spanning across exposed duct work, folded sheet metal contours along the bars, a cosy dropped wood ceiling and custom creations like bulleted banquettes and riveted metal tables that mimic the mechanised processes that pumps out gourmet goodies in the back.
A selection of prepared meals, displayed on heated marble counters or on stocked shelves, are available to go, but we suggest staying in to watch the action from behind the glass-walled kitchen while sampling dishes such as the classic Drake smoked brisket sandwich, served on freshly braked bread with horseradish crème and grainy mustard.
INFORMATION
ADDRESS
128 Sterling Road
-
Studio Urquiola’s immersive Kvadrat textile forest is inspired by the Nordic landscapeDuring Chart 2025, Studio Urquiola and Danish designers Tableau team up to present a textile installation showcasing Kvadrat’s nature-inspired new collection
-
The new Plaud Note Pro deploys AI to transform the spoken word into searchable dataThe Note Pro promises full-on conversational AI, a pocketable device that can capture roundtable chats and correctly attribute speakers, thoughts and action points. Help or hindrance?
-
10 things not to miss at London Design Festival 2025We bring you the best new installations, exhibitions and products to launch at London Design Festival 2025 (13–21 September)
-
The ultimate amenity in this Canadian apartment building? A trio of scene-stealing restaurantsPart of Citizen on Jasper, a new residential tower, Va!, Olia, and Mimi offer a thrilling day-to-night dining experience
-
Six brilliant bars for your 2025 celebrations, hot off the Wallpaper* travel deskWallpaper’s most-read bar reviews of the year can't be wrong: here’s inspiration for your festive and new year plans, from a swanky Las Vegas lounge to a minimalist London drinking den
-
Montreal Navigator: a guide to the city, from modernist marvels to gastronomic gemsMontreal, Quebec’s largest city, is a creative whirlwind, offering up a vibrant mix of arts and design venues, great restaurants, and a crowd-pulling cultural calendar
-
Vancouver restaurant Elio Volpe evokes a sun-drenched Italian beach clubExperience the laid-back feel of coastal Italy in Elio Volpe, a transportive new restaurant designed by Ste. Marie Studio
-
Take off with Wallpaper* June 2024: The Travel IssueThe Wallpaper* June 2024 Travel Issue is on sale now, ready to whisk you to the best of Ho Chi Minh City, Caracas’ modernist marvels, classy Canadian cabins, a Swiss sleep retreat, and more
-
Ama Bar, in Vancouver, is sexy and a little disorientingAma Bar features ‘Blade Runner 2049’-inspired interiors by &Daughters
-
Villa One at the One & Only Palmilla — Los Cabos, Mexico -
Martim — Wroclaw, Poland
