In a collaboration with Lisi Herrebrugh, Rushemy Botter was inspired by damage to the ocean and coral reefs for his My Patch Is My Heart collection, which features elegant deconstructed tailoring, offset with accessories evoking plastic refuse.
Would most like to have worked with: Walt Disney
Photography: Máté Moro. ‘Dimity’ (on walls throughout) Estate emulsion; ‘London Stone’ Estate emulsion (on floor), both £40 per 2.5 litres, by Farrow & Ball. ‘Carlo’ fabric in Incarnato (circle), £82 per m, by Rubelli Venezia
Destined for big things, this next generation of fashion-forward creators are setting themselves up for a future of boundary-busting design.
Fashion: Lune Kuipers. Writer: Laura Hawkins
Inspired by an ancient Chinese poem that depicts a silent natural scene before an ensuing storm, Sijia Wu’s collection, imagined in ceramic-inspired shades, features pieces that are delicately falling apart, with dry flowers, coffee and tea rolled into the fabrics.
Would most like to work with: Faye Toogood
Photography: Máté Moro. Shoes, €895, by Santoni Edited by Marco Zanini
Raphaël Caron took inspiration from 1960s and 1970s New York for his menswear collection, with this leather coat nodding to a piece worn by David Byrne at club CBGB. Its feather trim riffs on exuberant images of the city’s nightlife captured in Veretta Cobler’s New York Underground 1970-1980.
Would most like to work with: Raf Simons
Photography: Máté Moro. Shoes, €895, by Santoni Edited by Marco Zanini
‘In a situation of desire the feet point directly at the object of attraction,’ says Jo Cope, who kept analytical journals about feet for her MA graduate collection. This piece, which suggests two people making tentative romantic manoeuvres, was formed from hand-stretched red leather.
Would most like to work with: Tracey Emin
Photography: Máté Moro
Australian designer Zoe Champion’s collection, inspired by the death of her grandmother, features knitted creations sporting digitally glitched family photographs. Secondary yarns are embedded into her pieces, ‘playing on the idea of memories embedded in garments’.
Would most like to have worked with: Azzedine Alaïa
Photography: Máté Moro. ‘Loriano’ crushed velvet fabric in Steeple Grey (circle), £71 per m, by Romo
Mundane materials may have inspired Halina North’s designs, but the results were anything but. Her creations, made from recycled plastic bags and paper, won the Hilary Alexander OBE Trailblazer and Christopher Bailey Gold awards at Graduate Fashion Week.
Would most like to work with: Stella McCartney, JW Anderson
Photography: Máté Moro. Shoes, £380, by Church’s. ‘Linara Chamois’ fabric (circle), £38 per m, by Romo
