A new gem show entices the cream of contemporary jewellers to Geneva
GemGenève opens its gilded doors in Geneva tomorrow. The brainchild of an elite band of industry dealers and collectors, it promises to be a curated gem of a trade show offering a fresh perspective on today’s high jewellery world – an elite universe where collectors, experts, clients and connoisseurs converge. ‘We want GemGenève to become not only a vibrant trading place, but also an educational experience, a place where, each year, people come to discover new talents, new stories and undiscovered treasures,’ says Ida Faerber of the Faerber family, the renowned antique jewellery experts who lend to museums and galleries across the world and who spurred the show’s creation. From diamond and fine-pearl merchants to antique jewellery dealers and uniquely skilled craftsmen, GemGenève is designed to be as elegant and refined as you’d expect, but with an eye on the best in modern jewellery design too. Here’s our preview of the Contemporary Designer Showcase curated by jewellery historian and author Vivienne Becker:
Belmacz, by Julia Muggenburg
German-born, London-based artist Julia Muggenburg studied at London’s St Martin’s School of Art, choosing jewellery as her preferred mode of expression. Muggenburg’s pieces are singular in that they combine fashion, art, and design, into a distinct ‘modern-heritage’ style that is all her own. She operates the Belmacz art gallery in central London.
Ring by Belmacz
GemGenève is on view from 10-13 May, at Palexpo, Geneva
Cora Sheibani
The Swiss born, London-based jewellery designer is a long-term Wallpaper* favourite. Her ‘table jewel’ design for the 2015 Wallpaper Handmade exhibition was a playful take on the pudding course – she designed a sizeable chain of silver dessert bowls, in collaboration with traditional Edinburgh silversmith Hamilton & Inches, who hand-chased the entire piece. Sheibani doesn’t approach jewellery as art but as pure design, moulding line, form, colour, material and texture into a distinctive whole.
Necklace by Cora Sheibani
GemGenève is on view from 10-13 May, at Palexpo, Geneva
Hannah Martin
Just over a decade after she established her contemporary fine jewellery house, Hannah Martin continues to rise above the norm with expertly considered designs that shimmer with a fine art sensibility. A trained goldsmith, her influences range from the surreal fetish photography of French artist Pierre Molinier and the 'contradictions within the role and meaning of the jewel, particularly between the ownership – or possession' that so often defines a worn jewel. The pull between constraint and freedom in the physical attributes of the jewel are a recurring theme.
Ring by Hannah Martin
GemGenève is on view from 10-13 May, at Palexpo, Geneva
Fabio Salini
Working from his studio in Rome, Salini’s jewellery style is rooted in modernism, with an emphasis on 1970s forms. His architectural perspective on form combines with rich contrasts of precious and poor materials, radiant and matt textures and unexpected components, such as carbon fibre, leather, ebony, bronze and copper. His mission? To create an 'entirely new language for precious jewellery'.
Earrings by Fabio Salini
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
GemGenève is on view from 10-13 May, at Palexpo, Geneva
Caragh McKay has been a contributing editor at Wallpaper* since 2014. She was previously watches & jewellery director and is currently our resident lifestyle & shopping editor. Caragh has produced exhibitions and created and edited titles for publishers including the Daily Telegraph. She regularly chairs talks for luxury houses, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier among them. Caragh’s current remit is cross-cultural and her recent stories include the curious tale of how Muhammad Ali met his poetic match in Robert Burns and how a Martin Scorsese film revived a forgotten Osage art.
-
Maruni's new collections combine Japanese skills with humble functionality
Presented at Salone del Mobile 2024, Maruni's new collections include furniture by the brand's art director Naoto Fukasawa as well as Cecilie Manz and Jasper Morrison
By Danielle Demetriou Published
-
Neuraé: meet the new French skincare brand that can change your emotions
Neuraé is a new neuroscientific skincare brand harnessing the connection between the skin and the brain
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Meet the Turner Prize 2024 shortlisted artists
The Turner Prize 2024 shortlisted artists are Pio Abad, Claudette Johnson, Jasleen Kaur and Delaine Le Bas
By Hannah Silver Published