Francis de Lara and Gemfields: In the Eve glasses from Francis de Lara, Gemfields jewels become succulent symbols of temptation. An emerald-encrusted serpent’s tail, winding around the wearer’s ear, offers a glistening tourmaline apple which becomes a gently swaying earring. On the other side, the curving snake is more merciful; studded with softer cognac diamonds and pink sapphires, he doesn’t seduce, instead cutting an undulating silhouette as he looks to the sky in forgiveness.
Writer: Hannah Silver
Begum Khan: Istanbulite Begum Kiroglu, of Begum Khan, has encapsulated both her heritage and love of Shanghai – where she has lived for the last six years – in her designs. Whimsical, colourful and eccentric, they subvert the customs of the Ottoman Empire, juxtaposing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. There is a sense of humour to her pieces, and so beetles become studded with crystals and gold plated baroque pearls are unashamedly imperfect spheres. Kiroglu has fun with proportions - these Bora Bora earrings capturing the moment a gold fish ensnares a tiny jewelled blue shrimp almost graze the shoulders.
Writer: Hannah Silver
Ana Khouri: The Brazil-born New York-based jeweller’s Ana Khouri’s vision of adornment has always been pleasingly off-kilter. Her preoccupation with new ways to wear jewellery – earrings that balance precipitously on lobes, jewelled ear clips holding back earrings – is evident in her just-unveiled new collection. Traditional concepts are subverted, but so slightly as to appear uncanny. Diamond necklaces are off centre while gold and diamond rings, at first appearing to be perfectly rounded spheres, at second glance seem to undulate. This ring ticks all the traditional boxes but the eccentric placing cuts a striking and very modern silhouette.
Writer: Hannah Silver