Paris Fashion Week S/S 2018 womenswear editor’s picks

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2018 womenswear editor’s picks

Byredo: For Ben Gorham, who founded fragrance line Byredo in 2006, 2017 has been a year going from strength to strength. In April, he teamed up with Frame Denim on its first menswear collection, and September’s PFW celebrated ‘Accelerated Culture’ – the brand’s drag-race inspired accessories capsule collection. The pristine white presentation space featured flickering films of car racing projected onto the walls, and rows of Byredo’s latest bag designs housed in what looked like a sleek car garage. Patent, pop colour and metallic designs riffed on the bright and lacquered bonnets of racing cars, each shape designed to keep one’s personal belongings protected from the bumps and bashes of every day life. Photography: Thomas Goldblum

Y/Project: There’s a reason why most young Parisian editors and fashionistas applaud Y/Project as their favourite show season after season. The brand, led by Belgian designer Glenn Martens, speaks like no other to a generation that has been spoon-fed Instagram, yet looks for something truly original. Last night’s show was further proof, with Martens surprising everybody by starting his show with a series of looks that would have been preppy, conservative even, if they hadn’t been twisted to the very core. In his hands, polo shirts took on a street edge and modest cardigans became provocative as brooches were pinned on them like bejewelled nipples. There were also the usual activewear elements (a nylon tracksuit artfully turned into a pleated maxi skirt, Juicy Couture-like cotton sweatpants) artfully mixed with historic references like 17th-century millefeuille necklines and ruched tulle. ‘I have always been about the mixture: of eras, styles, subcultures.... That’s still what makes me tick,’ explained a cheerful Martens backstage, when asked about his inspirations. It also explains why an aesthetic that could go terribly wrong at the hands of another designer never fails to go terribly right at his. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Acne Studios: A set made of plastic curtains (yes, of the shower variety) welcomed guests at the Pavillon Cambon for the Acne Studios show. Hardly glamourous – or is it? As the first model marched down the runway, all ultra glossy satin trousers – so glossy that one couldn’t tell whether they were made out of ultra luxurious silk or cheap polyester – and a latex bowling t-shirt, not only did all things synthetic instantly become glamourous, but also downright desirable. This collection was on a road trip somewhere between Southern California and Nevada circa 1970. It was Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas meets The Big Lebowski meets Paul Morrissey’s films featuring Joe Dallessandro. Even the models looked a bit sleazy. The clothes even more so, in the best possible sense. Strutting to the psychedelic beats of Jefferson Airplane, the girls showed off a mixture of hologram-shaded belted jackets (the cuts and patterns had time-travelled staight from the 1970s, unmodified), cowboy leather shirts, crochet dresses, latex flared trousers and organza bowling shirts; the whole in a candy coloured palette and styled as brilliantly as it was designed. Which proves that, ‘chez’ Acne, life in plastic really is fantastic. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

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