New York Fashion Week S/S 2020 Editor’s Picks
We present the Wallpaper* pick of New York’s spring/summer women’s shows, from the undulating wood installation featured at Ulla Johnson’s presentation, to the food-themed bouquets created by Laila Gohar, for Moncler Genius’ celebration of its Valextra collaboration at its Soho boutique...
Maryam Nassir Zadeh: Downtown darling Maryam Nassir Zadeh chose a popular city park in Manhattan’s Lower East Side as the setting for her runway show. Exploring the ideas of home, community, past and present, connections, unity and transformation - mantras that she shared in her show notes - the latest collection was an eclectic melange of nostalgic prints, top handle handbags, vintage looking fabrics and tailored cargo pants that perpetuated her nonchalant and individualistic sense of style. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Helmut Lang: For Spring/Summer 2020, the label’s city-oriented perspective included multiple matching his n’ her’s ensembles, for whichever gender one identifies with. From translucent rubberized coats, moto jacket silhouettes emblazoned with splashes of metallic foil, to sheer, silk-panelled shirts and form-fitting bias cut dresses in fluorescent yellow, there was plenty of room for experimentation. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rosetta Getty: Inspired by the purity and stark geometry of the Bauhaus movement, Rosetta Getty presented an expanded collection that included more accessible, everyday complements to her usual offering of elevated essentials, such as cotton knit dresses, that still packed the same covetable elegance. The collection also heralded several firsts - a first foray into prints (Getty, a die-hard minimalist, chose a geometric tile print for her debut), as well as the label’s inaugural luggage range. Produced in collaboration with Ecco, the styles include a versatile handbag style with magnetic closures and a convertible strap, and a larger overnight tote, both made from a revolutionary, more sustainable leather.
Moncler Genius: To celebrate the New York installament of its Moncler Genius world tour, Moncler threw open the doors of its Soho boutique to show off its latest collaboration with Valextra. Pieces from the disruptive 2 Moncler 1952 + Valextra collection were complemented by edible sculptures created by food designer Laila Gohar, along with the store’s eye-catching interiors designed by Gilles & Boissier, which features a pair of cast bronze sculptures by the Beijing-born artist Ma Desheng.
Theory: Under the direction of designer Francesco Fucci, Theory has slowly stepped away from being primarily associated as a workwear brand. While the label still boasted a strong selection of tailored, office-apprioriate pieces, Fucci also made a strong case for how these pieces could function outside of that scenario as well. For example, crisp trousers were paired with a sheer silk button-down and a bikini top, while a pencil skirt was worn with a open-work crochet knit. Versatile essential silhoutettes were also elevated with textured material treatments and classic animal prints for a subtle panache.
Self-Portrait: The brand’s evolution away from the structured femininity that earned its success continues this season with a more relaxed silhouette that still delivers the air of confidence and energy that its fans love. Staged in the ornate lobby of the famed Woolworth Building, the idiosyncratic backdrop further enhanced the new collection’s experimentation with proportion. Topped off with oversized, all-weather hats by the London-based milliner Noel Stewart, the collection was a refreshing balance of athleticism and delicacy. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Pyer Moss: The brand’s Kerby-Jean Raymond chose the renowned Kings Theatre in Brooklyn to stage a gospel-backed spectacular in celebration of his label’s latest collection. The wunderkind, who skipped showing last season, returned with an exquisitely tailored collection that struck an equal balance between retro glamour and street cool. The third chapter in ‘American Also’, a triptych exploring Black peoples contribution to popular American culture, focused on the contributions of singer Sister Rosetta Tharpe, the black godmother of Rock ‘N Roll. The collection also featured incredible prints and illustrations designed by painter Richard Phillips, who was recently exonerated after being wrongfully incarcerated for 45 years. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ulla Johnson: The multi-culturalism and diversity of New York City found its way into Ulla Johnson’s newest collection, which whimsically wove shibori, dutchwax prints, Afghani embroidery and masai hand beading into its different looks. The collection’s palette, inspired by the jewel and pastel tones of the rise and setting of the sun, was also transformed into an evocative backdrop created by set designer Andrew Ondrejcak and accompanied by a graphically undulating pine sapling sculpture by the artists of Oliphant Studios in Bushwick, which took 300 hours to create.
Rag & Bone: After several seasons of eschewing the traditional runway format, Rag & Bone returned to the fashion week calendar with a runway show on the decommissioned stock exchange trading floor at Skylight on Vesey, set to a live performance of music, robot-controlled camera work and dance. Featuring the talents of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus and live percussion by Mauro Refosco and Joey Waronker, the label’s newest collection, which featured languid tailoring, chunky knits and sportswear-inspired motifs, took on a gritty, urban charge. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans