MM6 Maison Margiela: Guests gathered inside a cavernous warehouse space to witness the holy matrimony of a host of MM6 Maison Margiela brides. Here, twelve wedded women strode through the space in a host of subversively back-to-front gown-like getups, clad in silk, tulle, jersey ruffles, flounces of leather and tattered denim. The love-centric scene was inspired by the 1969 wedding of Yoko Ono and John Lennon, and models carried individual speakers blaring the sounds of church bells, birds tweeting and folk music. The concrete space was populated by clouds of white balloons and a giant sponge wedding cake was iced with the words ‘Just Margiela 6’, before being sliced up and handed to the congregation.
Borbonese: ‘I was thinking about the Agnelli family, who come from Turin, the birthplace of the Borbonese’, said Dorian Tarantini, one half of the label, of his sophomore collection for the heritage brand - one swathed in Eighties Gianfranco Ferré-inspired silhouettes, like nipped in skirt suits in tropical jacquards, cactus print suede trench coats and chessboard leather miniskirts. Alongside these powerful silhouettes, spiky pumps and micro handbags were crafted from the label’s signature partridge eye print, and for humorous sun drenched style, models standing on mirrored plinths in the cavernous entrance to a gilded palazzo sported suede covered sun reflectors.
Bulgari: After unveiling a stellar Serpenti Bag collaboration with Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week earlier this month, the Roman accessories and jewellery house unveiled a host of ornate, jewel-inspired and intricately honed versions of its Diamond Blast and Cabochon bags. The brand give same attention to accessories as gemstones, and for spring, new techniques included a metallic water snake fabrication, with an astonishingly soft feel, achieved through masking the texture through a metal drum, a graphic chain pavé embellishment electroplated in gold and malachite, onyx and black mother of pearl detailing.
Herno: Fashion’s penchant for the logo shows no sign of abating, and for the first time in its history, Herno dabbled in an opulent serif monogram print. Twelve silhouettes including sporty nylon bombers and sleek cotton trenchcoats have been embellished with the brand’s new monogram, it’s ‘H’ lettering nodding to the river Herno, which runs through the town it was founded in. Expect the print tessellated across outerwear or featuring as a luxurious lining detailing, inside sleeves or the inside of belts.
Brunello Cucinelli: Relaxed luxury was the name of the game for S/S 2020, as the fabrication-focused label debuted a collection brimming with slouchy short suiting in tropical tones, oversized bleached Japanese denim paired with splodgy abstract silk shirts and tailored waistcoats, pleated skirts and striped mohair knits. The label also introduced a chunky sneaker style for spring, plus a push on its delicate, graphic fine jewellery. Not forgetting these sugary pink wellington boots, perfect for pottering around your plant beds come spring.
Jimmy Choo: For its S/S 2020 presentation, the shoe and accessories giant teamed up with London-based art practice United Visual Artists – who masterminded the rainbow hued light installation for Christopher Bailey’s final Burberry collection – on a glitchy wall installation highlighting its standout spring pieces. Animal prints are high on the agenda for spring, and we’ll be sporting Choo’s punky leopard spot high tops, bejeweled leopard print evening pumps and chunky snakeskin platforms. Roar!
