Milan Fashion Week S/S 2016 womenswear editor’s picks
Furla: Vivid colours and geometric prints shone through across Furla’s Lights of Colour collection, mirrored in Thierry Dreyfus’ multifaceted set
MSGM: Massimo Giorgetti may have made his big debut as creative director at Emilio Pucci this season, but his own homegrown label MSGM did not suffer from a lack of attention. In fact, this collection – drenched in cool street wear and a speedy kind of energy – was one of the designer’s strongest in many seasons. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Bulgari: The Italian jewellery and accessory house took a harder edge approach to their S/S 2016 handbag edit
Giorgio Armani: Post show, Giorgio Armani presented his latest book entitled Giorgio Armani, a memoir and work anthology that includes historical shots of the designer with his family – he’s the little serious one on the far left
Valextra: Art director Peter Saville’s chance meeting in the Valextra store with the brand’s creative director and his observation that a handbag is always in motion was the starting point of the S/S 2016 collection, presented on Saville’s viaduct set design
Arthur Arbesser: The Austrian born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser delivered a sensational spring collection – the first he’s ever shown on a runway – inspired by the work of French artist Balthus. The monumental cat on the catwalk provided the perfect backdrop to Arbesser’s beautifully judged clothes and his watercolour floral prints
Álvaro: In Milan’s Park Hyatt veranda, Álvaro González presented his fabulous collection of bags and sandals hand crafted by Florentine artisans
Agnona: A gigantic tree planted in the middle of Palazzo Clerici by cashmere kings Agnona featured an installation of 18 past styles from the 62-year-old brand
Tod’s: Introducing the poster girls for Alessandra Facchinetti’s Tod’s band for S/S 2016, which plastered the walls of the brand’s Milan show space
Jimmy Choo: Exotic bags and suede ankle tie flats were the highlight at Jimmy Choo whose creative director Sandra Choi took inspiration from California sky gazing, combining vintage references with architectural details.
‘Sunshine, the outdoors and the sculptural grandeur of architects like Richard Meier and Frank Gehry were the starting point,’ she explained
Moncler: The brand shaped their S/S 2016 season with the most elegant bell inspired silhouettes
Kiton: The tailoring brand created gorgeous mid century design vignettes in their Milan headquarters to show off their latest spring collection
Antonio Marras: The designer’s folklore silhouettes and encrusted embroideries were inspired by Armenian director Sergei Parajanov’s 1969 film, The Color of Pomegranates. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ralph Lauren: The designer brought his spring collection to the exquisite interiors of his Milanese palazzo in Via San Barnaba
Ca & Lou: Designers Carolina Neri and Berengere Lux showed their latest jewellery collection for Ca & Lou on chicly dressed 1920s bathing beauties inside the courtyard of Milan’s Palazzo Crespi
Loro Piana: The maddening thing about a brand like Loro Piana is that you get no clue as to the clothes’ quality from photographs. Trust us: these were all cut from the most divine double-faced cashmere
Sergio Rossi: Sergio Rossi’s collection and design director Angelo Ruggeri found inspiration in the glamour of the past. Not forgetting the brand’s iconic stiletto, this season’s shoes were wedged, with intricate leather work and block-heeled with a combination of wood and cork
Sara Battaglia: S/S 2016’s handbag designs exploded into an extravagant 18th century scene
Iceberg: Arthur Arbesser gave a strong showing in his debut as the new creative director of Iceberg. The Austrian-born, Milan-based designer kept his silhouettes clean and punched up the easy shapes with graphic hits of colour and stripes
Bally: A Bally artisan puts the finishing touches on the brand’s new ‘Brancusi’ shoe
Prada: A few choice looks from Prada’s latest spring collection
Santoni: Fringing was the detailing de jour at Santoni where spring’s brogues and heels were finished with a leather moustache
Fendi: Excellent furniture meeting fashion moment at Fendi’s Milan headquarters
Brunello Cucinelli: Laced with a nautical semblance, S/S 2016 was awash with seaside references from the collection’s softly wrapped fisherman’s pants (and skirts) to its modern mariner stripes
Hogan: Simon Holloway’s latest collection for Hogan took place in the brand’s Zona Tortona’s headquarters along with a shower of neon lit Plexiglas lightening bolts
Fratelli Rossetti: Pastel leathers inked with floral prints took inspiration from tropical jungles and Hawaiian tattoo culture at Fratelli Rossetti
Giannico: The baby faced Milan based designer Nicolò Beretta presented his new Giannico shoe label within the very grown up halls of the Hotel et di Milano. We especially liked the leafy prints inspired by the Beverly Hills Hotel and floral leather corsage work
Gucci: Kering’s François-Henri Pinault flew out to Milan to fete Gucci’s new creative director Alessandro Michele with a five course meal prepared by famous Modena-based chef Michele Buttura
Casadei: The footwear brand launched a cool capsule collection of Mod-inspired block heels this season
Brian Atwood: The shoe designer wins the award for best accessories presentation in Milan. The Chicago-born designer took over the hallowed halls of the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi where he brought in a feisty mariachi band to accompany his sexy footwear designs
Paula Cademartori: Brazilian-born, Milan based accessories designer Paula Cademartori has exploded her nascent handbag line into a very grown up, enormous array of shoes and bags, which she showed in the Antonio Citterio-designed Mandarin Oriental hotel