Belstaff: Creative director Delphine Ninous saddled up for S/S 2018, with a men’s and women’s collection inspired by the motorcycle bound adventures of seventies and eighties riders in the Paris Dakar rally. The intrepid collection, imagined in North-African inspired scorched hues and sage green and rose, nods to retro inspired sportswear, and features leather jackets in graphic patchwork, and with a fiery Phoenix logo. Should you ever find yourself on the track, Belstaff’s pieces won’t just look good, they’ll perform well too. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kent & Curwen: S/S 2018 at Kent & Curwen was all about teamwork. Creative director Daniel Kearns looked to the nonchalance of the fragmented, self-styled uniforms worn by British Olympians during the Austerity Games in London in 1948. A patchwork of college stripes from the house archive was used throughout. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
John Smedley: The mascot of John Smedley’s first ‘See Now, Buy Now’ collection dates back to the 1930s. Japanese Koi – printed on silk shirts and patch pockets on t-shirts – are taken from an original watercolour brought back by John Smedley ll after his first trip to Japan. Standout for the season are the tailored knitted suits in extra fine merino wool with sea wave jacquard
Lou Dalton: In her fourth season working with John Smedley, Dalton took her eponymous line back to its core. ‘I wanted to show people that it’s about great, easy product,’ she said at her presentation staged in the windows of an empty shop on London’s Jermyn Street. Her hand-drawn Breton stripe jumpers will be sure to brighten up the coming season. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Matthew Miller: a medieval church in east London was the serene setting for Matthew Miller’s S/S 2018 collection. A uniform of all black was the order of the day, and prints of the naked body, derived from the work of photographer Jonathan Baron added an erotic edge. Trench coats and bomber jackets came with straps attached to their back so they could be worn across the body like a bag, elsewhere tops came with Velcro fastenings reminiscent of a bulletproof vest. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro: Designer Mihara Yasuhiro has – like Hussein Chalayan – spent the S/S 2018 season wondering about all of the people in the world constantly typing away busily into their phones. All of us interacting with strangers in an echo chamber of our own making. Yasuhiro presented his unique brand of wry indifference in the basement of a car park. Wearing trainers with the backs hacked off, half-wrap jeans, vintage punk motifs and spliced jumpers, the message ‘do not tag me’ was read loud and clear
