
Berthold: Models paced through an installation of plaster-cast water bottles at Raimund Berthold’s A/W 2017 presentation. In a collection that explored volume and restriction, oversized kimono-like coats cocooned the body, while longer length jersey roll-necks pulled in wide-leg trousers below the knee. Trousers were also cinched at the waist with bandage-like Velcro fastenings and knitted balaclavas covered the models’ faces. Outfits came colour blocked in uniform-like in polar white, black and deep purple.

Matthew Miller: Preoccupied with the concept of fear in today’s post-truth era, Miller imagined uniforms for the disenchanted, comprised of double-layered shirts tied sling-like under the shoulder, MA-1 bomber jackets with grosgrain ribbon pulls and multi-pocketed parachute bags. The designer also collaborated with Design Lab Japan, producing scarves that trailed from the lapels of suits, bearing a bleached and sobered version of Jan Davidsz’s Vase with Flowers. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Lou Dalton: ‘I showed him this old abstract picture of Shropshire, and I just said “reinterpret it in a John Booth way”,’ explained the designer of her collaboration with the artist and ceramicist John Booth. Imagining her A/W 2017 collection as a blank canvas, Dalton’s designs included denim painted with Booth’s crayon-like colourful illustrations, which were contrasted against a more earthy colour palette of burned orange, navy and khaki. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY: In his third outing for MAN, the extravagant designer presented a collection ordered into four chapters, which explored the excesses of modern society. Scantily clad mud-caked dancers, choreographed by the Theo Adams Company, twisted around pillars as models strode the catwalk, donned in a historical pastiche of Prince of Wales velvet coats, Seditionaries-style buckled trousers and ruffled shirts. Each chapter culminated in the form of a giant papier-mâché deity, designed by Gary Card. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Christopher Shannon: Sportswear, manual labour uniforms and denim were all in the mix at Christopher Shannon. Bold colours were patchworked together for graphic effect in a two-piece casual suit, while track tops and puffa jackets came apart at the arms and body with poppers. Shannon’s sly sense of humour came through in series of slogan t-shirts that mimicked iconic brand logos. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Margaret Howell: Set to combine its men’s and women’s collections into one show next month, this A/W 2017 preview nodded to the nautical with Breton striped t-shirts, beanie hats, knotted silk scarves and button-shouldered knits in light grey, stone and navy. Pops of colour came in the red silk ties finished with 1970s-era paisley prints and mustard yellow knitwear. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans