London Fashion Week A/W 2017 menswear editor’s picks
Berthold: Models paced through an installation of plaster-cast water bottles at Raimund Berthold’s A/W 2017 presentation. In a collection that explored volume and restriction, oversized kimono-like coats cocooned the body, while longer length jersey roll-necks pulled in wide-leg trousers below the knee. Trousers were also cinched at the waist with bandage-like Velcro fastenings and knitted balaclavas covered the models’ faces. Outfits came colour blocked in uniform-like in polar white, black and deep purple.
Matthew Miller: Preoccupied with the concept of fear in today’s post-truth era, Miller imagined uniforms for the disenchanted, comprised of double-layered shirts tied sling-like under the shoulder, MA-1 bomber jackets with grosgrain ribbon pulls and multi-pocketed parachute bags. The designer also collaborated with Design Lab Japan, producing scarves that trailed from the lapels of suits, bearing a bleached and sobered version of Jan Davidsz’s Vase with Flowers. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Lou Dalton: ‘I showed him this old abstract picture of Shropshire, and I just said “reinterpret it in a John Booth way”,’ explained the designer of her collaboration with the artist and ceramicist John Booth. Imagining her A/W 2017 collection as a blank canvas, Dalton’s designs included denim painted with Booth’s crayon-like colourful illustrations, which were contrasted against a more earthy colour palette of burned orange, navy and khaki. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY: In his third outing for MAN, the extravagant designer presented a collection ordered into four chapters, which explored the excesses of modern society. Scantily clad mud-caked dancers, choreographed by the Theo Adams Company, twisted around pillars as models strode the catwalk, donned in a historical pastiche of Prince of Wales velvet coats, Seditionaries-style buckled trousers and ruffled shirts. Each chapter culminated in the form of a giant papier-mâché deity, designed by Gary Card. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Christopher Shannon: Sportswear, manual labour uniforms and denim were all in the mix at Christopher Shannon. Bold colours were patchworked together for graphic effect in a two-piece casual suit, while track tops and puffa jackets came apart at the arms and body with poppers. Shannon’s sly sense of humour came through in series of slogan t-shirts that mimicked iconic brand logos. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Margaret Howell: Set to combine its men’s and women’s collections into one show next month, this A/W 2017 preview nodded to the nautical with Breton striped t-shirts, beanie hats, knotted silk scarves and button-shouldered knits in light grey, stone and navy. Pops of colour came in the red silk ties finished with 1970s-era paisley prints and mustard yellow knitwear. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Mihara Yasuhiro: Shown inside the Barbican’s tropical conservatory, Yasuhiro’s collection explored the concept of simplicity, and featured monochromatic looks in bottle green, walnut and black. Rubberised cotton trousers, leather biker jackets, wide-buckled overcoats and shiny lycra boots all bore protective qualities, and were paired with Black Panther-era black wool berets. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Phoebe English Man: ‘It’s an observation about the men I know in my life and what they do. I get them into the studio to try pieces on, and look at details like the pockets,’ explains the designer, whose presentation featured seven men engaging in household chores. From floor-mopping to sheet-folding, these were carried out in utilitarian wide-legged trousers in navy and purplish-brown, striped band-collared shirts and loose belted jackets. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Joseph: Focused on making the untraditional traditional, creative director Louise Trotter imbued classic silhouettes with new fabrications, oversized angles and off-kilter colours. Overcoats were reimagined in long-haired double alpaca, striped jogging bottoms came in smooth neoprene and lightweight military parkas folded into small zipped bags. Inspired by a vintage find, Trotter also created a colourful intarsia knit cardigan, featuring flying Canada geese.
John Lobb: ‘I was really interested in water and what that means in the process of shoe and bootmaking,’ explains artistic director Paula Gerbase of John Lobb’s presentation set, which featured troughs of water and projections of crashing waves, designed by Robert Storey. These elemental motifs were reflected in the use of flowing large-pattern pieces that made up cross-strapped boots, sneakers and loafers, in waterproof crocodile suede and pebble-grain leather
Kent & Curwen: Captivated by collegiate motifs and sports club memorabilia, creative director Daniel Kearn created preppy striped blazers emblazoned with sports club patches, and aged rugby shirts embroidered with English roses. These nostalgic embellishments were offset against more military focussed shapes, including olive wool coats worn by officers in the Second World War and baker boy caps created in collaboration with Lock & Co.
Chalayan: Hussein Chalayan’s intimate presentation – held at his Bourdon Street store – was the perfect setting to observe the iconic designer’s first menswear show. Signature elements appeared in the cutting of outer layers to reveal inner details. A series of white shirts came with medallion-like accessories taken from Greek ethnic attire, while relaxed jackets and coats came with waistcoats built into them. Knitwear was also key, with web-like sweaters and relaxed cardigans in felted cashmere. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Studio Nicholson: ‘I want to make clothes that everyone feels at home in,’ says creative director Nick Wakeman, who has launched a sumptuous menswear collection for A/W 2017. Pieces include wide-legged denim in off-white and indigo, made at Blackhorse Workshop in Walthamstow, teddy-corduroy and grainy thorn-proof balloon pants, a signature silhouette of Studio Nicholson’s womenswear, and a herringbone drop-shouldered overcoat inspired by David Byrne.
Private White VC: Robust outerwear ruled at Private White VC this season. Heavy wool overcoats looked fit for alpine expeditions, while the volume of a classic peacoat was finished with exaggerated lapels and a generous cut, allowing for chunky cable-knit cardigans to be worn underneath. Other climbing references came in the form of waxed cotton rucksacks and outfits accessorised with rope harnesses, knitted beanies and scarves. Keeping with the brand’s heritage, all of the fabrics were sourced locally from the mills surrounding its Manchester factory.
Christopher Raeburn: Known for the ability to change colour to match its surroundings, the chameleon was Raeburn’s mascot for A/W 2017. Cross-body bags echoed the shape of this scaly reptile, while woodland camouflage adopted neon patches to blend into the urban environment. The designer continued his sustainable ethos with a series of utility jackets remade from decommissioned parachutes. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans