
Dior: Raf Simons and Bureau Betak joined forces once again to create one of the most ambitious sets of the season at Dior. Inside a blue Delphinium-covered hill erected in the centre of the Louvre’s Cour Carrée, a pristine white space was lit by a set of four robotic arms equipped with multiple spotlights. Built over the course of three weeks by a team of 100 florists, carpenters and riggers who worked day and night to bring Simons’ vision to life, the bloom-covered mountain was composed of 15 semi-trucks worth of scaffolding, 2,000 square metres of oasis foam, 4km of sawed lawn and a staggering 40 tons of blue Delphiniums. Photography: Adrien Dirand
Writer: Ali Morris

3.1 Phillip Lim: Recalling the enormous mounds of purple sand that lined Prada’s S/S 2015 runway, models at Phillip Lim’s S/S 2016 show in New York’s Pier 92 navigated their way around huge pointy piles of toxin-free compost. The spectacle, orchestrated by architectural artist Maya Lin, took just three days to install. While the earth mounds echoed the simple lines of Lim’s collection, they also tie in with the show’s garden-themed title, ’Stop and Smell the Flowers’

Chanel: This season, Lagerfeld conceived another blockbuster set, theatrically transforming the lofty interiors of the Grand Palais into an airport terminal complete with 40 different Chanel-branded check-in desks, luggage trolleys and a huge departure board listing the house’s recent show locations. Photography: Olivier Saillant

Jonathan Saunders: Sunglasses were a necessity for guests at Jonathan Saunders show, which took place in a light-filled glasshouse behind London’s Central Saint Martins college. Seating took the form of chunky blue benches, while a series of angled mirrors amplified the bright autumn sunshine and the brilliant patterned layers of the designer’s new collection. ’This one in particular looked up to the sky,’ said Saunders comparing of his set design, which echoed the mood of the collection itself, ’it was about lightness, which is so important when you think about clothing and dressing women – that she feels like she is not burdened. There’s an effortlessness to it’

Agnona: There was a fairytale feeling at Agnona this season with a set that revolved around an enchanted tree, installed within Milan’s 18th century Palazzo Clerici. Intended as a tribute to the house’s heritage and its works for the likes of Balmain, Dior, Chanel, Cardin and Saint Laurent, the tree’s butterfly-filled, leafy branches were hung with a series of 18 glowing cashmere voile silhouettes - eleven from its archive and five taken from the new collection

Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci crossed the pond for his spring Givenchy presentation teaming up with artist Marina Abramović to create an open air New York show spectacle scheduled for the evening of the 14th anniversary of September 11. Located at Pier 26 by the Hudson River with jaw dropping views of Lower Manhattan and One World Trade Center, the set was constructed from recycled materials and featured performers utilising props including water and tree branches (symbols of cleansing and rebirth) in keeping with the night’s overall theme of love, peace and humility