The grooming trends that shaped New York fashion week S/S 2013

Diane Kendal gave models translucently pale complexions and completely matte lips

Alexander Wang: Make-up artist Diane Kendal kept things simple by giving models translucently pale complexions and completely matte lips, so the focus was on the graphic hair ornamentation that Guido Palau fashioned: thick black tape that ran all the way down the centre-parting of ponytails and into forehead territory. Words: Rosa Bertoli

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 October 2022

in Features

**Altuzarra:** Tom Pecheux accentuated eyes with a thin blue line of shadow, while Paul Hanlon framed the face with an elegant side-parted do, tightly pulled into a low, knotted chignon

**Belstaff:** Belstaff's Spring collection was a modern take on its utilitarian heritage, so grooming was fresh and natural, with a well-groomed brow and subtly-painted lip taking centre-stage. Hair was glossy with a delicate wave

A bright, pearlescent accent on the eye by Pat McGrath — **Calvin Klein Collection:** A bright, pearlescent accent on the eye and a touch of gloss on the lip by Pat McGrath, nicely complemented by Guido Palau's a sensual bed-head of lightly tousled waves - loosely pulled to the side of the face and tucked behind the ear

The makeup done by Pat McGrath and hair styled by Guido Palau — **Diesel Black Gold:** Pat McGrath added a light hint of colour to eyes and cheeks, while Guido Palau straightened hair and combed it tightly on one side

The monochromatic looks at Donna Karan were lit up by the bold fuschia-shaded eyes — **Donna Karan:** On the other end of the grooming spectrum, the monochromatic looks at Donna Karan were lit up by the bold fuschia-shaded eyes courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury, while hairstylist Eugene Souleiman's wind-blown hair consisted of wispy locks being teased out of a relaxed chignon and fixed upwards

A clean-faced look by make-up artist Mayia Alleaume — **Lacoste:** The graphic collection at Lacoste was softened with a clean-faced look by make-up artist Mayia Alleaume, who gave models a generous dollop of gloss on the lips. Lauren Philippon's hairstyles had a similarly youthful flavour, with shiny straight locks neatly brushed to the side of the face

Jacobs' scarves and turbans seen on all models — **Marc By Marc Jacobs**: A colourful, heavily-patterned collection was matched with smoky eyes and glossy pink lips. Jacobs' scarves and turbans - seen on all the models - were worn over messy chignons or long textured locks

The makeup of the model done by Francois Nars and hair done by Guido Palau — **Marc Jacobs:** Francois Nars' focus here was clearly on the eye and the brow - the former shaded in a smoky black, the latter lined in a graphic arch. Guido Palau back-combed locks and styled them into a bold side-parted low ponytail

**Michael Kors:** Michael Kors' optical use of colours was picked up by make-up artist Dick Paige and translated into a single bright line of colour on eyelids (green for brunettes, turquoise for blondes). The designers' nod to the 1960s served as inspiration for hair guru Orlando Pita, who created a shiny do that was pulled back into a half-ponytail

**Proenza Schouler**: A simple matte look by make-up artist Diane Kendall is highlighted with a touch of pink on the lips. Paul Hanlon's raw, 'imperfect' locks were made casually voluminous around the head and gathered into a low ponytail

An image of the model in Ralph Lauren's Spring collection — **Ralph Lauren:** The Flamenco references in Ralph Lauren's Spring collection were embodied in the thick, perfectly-groomed brows and low chignons, which were worn under basque-style berets

An image of models with textured locks by Diane Kendal and Guido Palau — **Reed Krakoff:** No-fuss complexions and a light touch of pink on the lips was all make-up guru Diane Kendal needed to off-set Guido Palau's wet, textured locks, which were set in a low ponytail

An image of model make up done by James Kaliardos and hair done by Odile Gilbert — **Rodarte:** With the collection's decorative elements stealing the show as is usually the case at Rodarte, James Kaliardos went for a natural foundation, adding a hint of gloss to keep brows in place and a darker tone to define the lips. Odile Gilbert pulled perfectly straight hair over the head, creating a sleek hair-band that highlighted the intricate earpieces worn by the models

The make up done by Diane Kendal and hair done by Odile Gilbert — **Thakoon:** Diane Kendal sharpened cheeks with an intense shadow of bronzed dust, framing the face with a thin 1930s-inspired brow. Hair by Odile Gilbert was ultra sleek and centre-parted, secured with a few pins on each side of the head to contrast with the soft waves which flowed from the nape down

The makeup on the model done by Diane Kendal and Eugene Souleiman — **Tommy Hilfiger**: Tommy Hilfiger's American beauties sported fresh, girl-next-door faces and healthy, wavy manes, thanks to Diane Kendal and Eugene Souleiman

The make up of the model done by Diane Kendal and hair styling by Guido Palau — **Victoria Beckham:** Diane Kendal's muted palette of pale, natural tones in models' complexions was matched with Guido Palau's simple hairstyling, which featured tight centre-partings and natural brushed manes

A natural look created by colour palette from Pat McGrath and hair done by Eugene Souleiman — **Y-3**: A naturally pink colour palette from Pat McGrath - applied perfectly onto cheeks, eyes and lips. Eugene Souleiman pulled hair back in a tight ponytail, securing it with a triple white elastic band

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

Wallpaper* Newsletter