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The grooming trends that shaped New York fashion week S/S 2013

The grooming trends that shaped New York fashion week S/S 2013

Fashion / 10 Oct 2012

Alexander Wang: Make-up artist Diane Kendal kept things simple by giving models translucently pale complexions and completely matte lips, so the focus was on the graphic hair ornamentation that Guido Palau fashioned: thick black tape that ran all the way down the centre-parting of ponytails and into forehead territory

Photography: Jason Lloyd Evans; Words: Rosa Bertoli

Alexander Wang: Make-up artist Diane Kendal kept things simple by giving models translucently pale complexions and completely matte lips, so the focus was on the graphic hair ornamentation that Guido Palau fashioned: thick black tape that ran all the way down the centre-parting of ponytails and into forehead territory

Photography: Jason Lloyd Evans; Words: Rosa Bertoli

...

Altuzarra: Tom Pecheux accentuated eyes with a thin blue line of shadow, while Paul Hanlon framed the face with an elegant side-parted do, tightly pulled into a low, knotted chignon

Altuzarra: Tom Pecheux accentuated eyes with a thin blue line of shadow, while Paul Hanlon framed the face with an elegant side-parted do, tightly pulled into a low, knotted chignon

Belstaff: Belstaff's Spring collection was a modern take on its utilitarian heritage, so grooming was fresh and natural, with a well-groomed brow and subtly-painted lip taking centre-stage. Hair was glossy with a delicate wave

Belstaff: Belstaff's Spring collection was a modern take on its utilitarian heritage, so grooming was fresh and natural, with a well-groomed brow and subtly-painted lip taking centre-stage. Hair was glossy with a delicate wave

Calvin Klein Collection: A bright, pearlescent accent on the eye and a touch of gloss on the lip by Pat McGrath, nicely complemented by Guido Palau's a sensual bed-head of lightly tousled waves - loosely pulled to the side of the face and tucked behind the ear

Calvin Klein Collection: A bright, pearlescent accent on the eye and a touch of gloss on the lip by Pat McGrath, nicely complemented by Guido Palau's a sensual bed-head of lightly tousled waves - loosely pulled to the side of the face and tucked behind the ear

Diesel Black Gold: Pat McGrath added a light hint of colour to eyes and cheeks, while Guido Palau straightened hair and combed it tightly on one side

Diesel Black Gold: Pat McGrath added a light hint of colour to eyes and cheeks, while Guido Palau straightened hair and combed it tightly on one side

Donna Karan: On the other end of the grooming spectrum, the monochromatic looks at Donna Karan were lit up by the bold fuschia-shaded eyes courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury, while hairstylist Eugene Souleiman's wind-blown hair consisted of wispy locks being teased out of a relaxed chignon and fixed upwards

Donna Karan: On the other end of the grooming spectrum, the monochromatic looks at Donna Karan were lit up by the bold fuschia-shaded eyes courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury, while hairstylist Eugene Souleiman's wind-blown hair consisted of wispy locks being teased out of a relaxed chignon and fixed upwards

Lacoste: The graphic collection at Lacoste was softened with a clean-faced look by make-up artist Mayia Alleaume, who gave models a generous dollop of gloss on the lips. Lauren Philippon's hairstyles had a similarly youthful flavour, with shiny straight locks neatly brushed to the side of the face

Lacoste: The graphic collection at Lacoste was softened with a clean-faced look by make-up artist Mayia Alleaume, who gave models a generous dollop of gloss on the lips. Lauren Philippon's hairstyles had a similarly youthful flavour, with shiny straight locks neatly brushed to the side of the face

Marc By Marc Jacobs: A colourful, heavily-patterned collection was matched with smoky eyes and glossy pink lips. Jacobs' scarves and turbans - seen on all the models - were worn over messy chignons or long textured locks

Marc By Marc Jacobs: A colourful, heavily-patterned collection was matched with smoky eyes and glossy pink lips. Jacobs' scarves and turbans - seen on all the models - were worn over messy chignons or long textured locks

Marc Jacobs: Francois Nars' focus here was clearly on the eye and the brow - the former shaded in a smoky black, the latter lined in a graphic arch. Guido Palau back-combed locks and styled  them into a bold side-parted low ponytail

Marc Jacobs: Francois Nars' focus here was clearly on the eye and the brow - the former shaded in a smoky black, the latter lined in a graphic arch. Guido Palau back-combed locks and styled  them into a bold side-parted low ponytail

Michael Kors: Michael Kors' optical use of colours was picked up by make-up artist Dick Paige and translated into a single bright line of colour on eyelids (green for brunettes, turquoise for blondes). The designers' nod to the 1960s served as inspiration for hair guru Orlando Pita, who created a shiny do that was pulled back into a half-ponytail

Michael Kors: Michael Kors' optical use of colours was picked up by make-up artist Dick Paige and translated into a single bright line of colour on eyelids (green for brunettes, turquoise for blondes). The designers' nod to the 1960s served as inspiration for hair guru Orlando Pita, who created a shiny do that was pulled back into a half-ponytail

Proenza Schouler: A simple matte look by make-up artist Diane Kendall is highlighted with a touch of pink on the lips. Paul Hanlon's raw, 'imperfect' locks were made casually voluminous around the head and gathered into a low ponytail

Proenza Schouler: A simple matte look by make-up artist Diane Kendall is highlighted with a touch of pink on the lips. Paul Hanlon's raw, 'imperfect' locks were made casually voluminous around the head and gathered into a low ponytail

Ralph Lauren: The Flamenco references in Ralph Lauren's Spring collection were embodied in the thick, perfectly-groomed brows and low chignons, which were worn under basque-style berets

Ralph Lauren: The Flamenco references in Ralph Lauren's Spring collection were embodied in the thick, perfectly-groomed brows and low chignons, which were worn under basque-style berets

Reed Krakoff: No-fuss complexions and a light touch of pink on the lips was all make-up guru Diane Kendal needed to off-set Guido Palau's wet, textured locks, which were set in a low ponytail

Reed Krakoff: No-fuss complexions and a light touch of pink on the lips was all make-up guru Diane Kendal needed to off-set Guido Palau's wet, textured locks, which were set in a low ponytail

Rodarte: With the collection's decorative elements stealing the show as is usually the case at Rodarte, James Kaliardos went for a natural foundation, adding a hint of gloss to keep brows in place and a darker tone to define the lips. Odile Gilbert pulled perfectly straight hair over the head, creating a sleek hair-band that highlighted the intricate earpieces worn by the models

Rodarte: With the collection's decorative elements stealing the show as is usually the case at Rodarte, James Kaliardos went for a natural foundation, adding a hint of gloss to keep brows in place and a darker tone to define the lips. Odile Gilbert pulled perfectly straight hair over the head, creating a sleek hair-band that highlighted the intricate earpieces worn by the models

Thakoon: Diane Kendal sharpened cheeks with an intense shadow of bronzed dust, framing the face with a thin 1930s-inspired brow. Hair by Odile Gilbert was ultra sleek and centre-parted, secured with a few pins on each side of the head to contrast with the soft waves which flowed from the nape down

Thakoon: Diane Kendal sharpened cheeks with an intense shadow of bronzed dust, framing the face with a thin 1930s-inspired brow. Hair by Odile Gilbert was ultra sleek and centre-parted, secured with a few pins on each side of the head to contrast with the soft waves which flowed from the nape down

Tommy Hilfiger: Tommy Hilfiger's American beauties sported fresh, girl-next-door faces and healthy, wavy manes, thanks to Diane Kendal and Eugene Souleiman

Tommy Hilfiger: Tommy Hilfiger's American beauties sported fresh, girl-next-door faces and healthy, wavy manes, thanks to Diane Kendal and Eugene Souleiman

Victoria Beckham: Diane Kendal's muted palette of pale, natural tones in models' complexions was matched with Guido Palau's simple hairstyling, which featured tight centre-partings and natural brushed manes

Victoria Beckham: Diane Kendal's muted palette of pale, natural tones in models' complexions was matched with Guido Palau's simple hairstyling, which featured tight centre-partings and natural brushed manes

Y-3: A naturally pink colour palette from Pat McGrath - applied perfectly onto cheeks, eyes and lips. Eugene Souleiman pulled hair back in a tight ponytail, securing it with a triple white elastic band

Y-3: A naturally pink colour palette from Pat McGrath - applied perfectly onto cheeks, eyes and lips. Eugene Souleiman pulled hair back in a tight ponytail, securing it with a triple white elastic band

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