The grooming trends that shaped Milan Fashion Week S/S 2014

An image in which make-up artist is Tom Pecheux

Marni: In keeping with Consuelo Castiglioni's sportif theme, make-up artist Tom Pecheux's keyword for his work at Marni was 'purity', which he perfectly blended into the models' luminous faces, partly shaded by bejewelled visors . Writer: Rosa Bertoli

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 October 2022

in Features

**Fendi:** The girls at Fendi wore matching black wigs cut in a short irregular bob. Their faces were left bare except for a thick layer of matte coral lipstick

**Dsquared²:** The glamorous beauties at Dsquared² had a pop of fluorescent lipstick and heavily bronzed cheeks by Charlotte Tilbury, with vaporous, 1950s-esque hair by Sam McKnight

**MSGM**: A bright pop of colour on the models' lips highlighted Val Garland's 'tropical sundae' faces at MSGM. Neil Moodie kept things easy with a classic low ponytail

An image of the models with pearlescent touches on the eyes and lips — **No 21:** At this show a glamorous sophistication was achieved with pearlescent touches on the eyes and lips, matched with relaxed, blow-dried locks

Miuccia Prada's eyebrow-less girls with a spooky look — **Prada:** Miuccia Prada's eyebrow-less girls had a somewhat spooky look courtesy of Pat McGrath's Pop paint job, with pastel colours blended widely across the eyelids. Guido Palau kept things simple and lady-like with a smooth mane parted to one side

A natural look for the models at Bottega Veneta — **Bottega Veneta:** A natural look was requested at Bottega Veneta, with Guido Palau fashioning a seemingly unkempt, wavy hairdo, while Pat McGrath added a touch of gloss to the models' lips over bright, uniformed skin

The Emporio label models with small braids created by brand regular Franco Gobbi.

Emporio Armani: This season the beauty at Armani was an experimental affair. The Emporio label featured otherwordly creatures with small braids created by brand regular Franco Gobbi. Make-up artist Linda Cantello outlined the eyelashes with a thick mascara and added a pink shade on lips for a youthful look

(Image credit: Emporio Armani)

An enthusiastic use of dark green around the models' eyes — **Giorgio Armani:** Mr Armani's maximalist collection was aptly matched to a curled pompadour hairdo and an enthusiastic use of dark green around the models' eyes, once again courtesy of Franco Gobbi and Linda Cantello

Luigi Murenu left hair wet and loose for the show — **Gucci:** Luigi Murenu left hair wet and loose, combing it back into a textured look. Pat McGrath then gave depth to the gaze with a liquid brown shadow around the eyes

Guido Palau and Pat McGrath worked together to create a sophisticated look — **Jil Sander:** Another natural look graced the catwalk at Jil Sander. Guido Palau and Pat McGrath worked together to create a sophisticated combination of low side-parted ponytails and essential make-up

Tom Pecheux and Luigi Murenu gave an enhanced look on the model — **Max Mara:** Tom Pecheux employed an unusual sparkly dust over lids and brows at Max Mara, creating an eerie look, which was enhanced by Luigi Murenu's sleek, wavy hair

**Missoni:** The look at Missoni was about raw beauty, with textured hair fashioned into irregular waves and eyes thickly lined by Lucia Pieroni

Eugene Souleiman and Tom Pecheux gave an enhanced look to the models. — **Ports 1961:** The menswear references at Ports 1961 was contrasted with an ultra feminine beauty look. Eugene Souleiman created a sleekly side-parted low chignon, while Tom Pecheux's focus was on a soft red lip and magnetic eyes

No makeup look with just some imperceptible shading used to highlight models' features — **Emilio Pucci:** Lisa Butler's concept backstage was 'a strong girl who doesn't need make-up', with just some imperceptible shading used to highlight models' features. Equally effortless were Luigi Murenu's hairdos, consisting of slightly wavy locks

**Roberto Cavalli:** Diane Kendal chose a modern, pure look at Roberto Cavalli, creating a pleasant contrast with the 1920s references of the collection

Sophisticated tailoring was paired with elegant make-up by Lisa Butler at Ferragamo — **Salvatore Ferragamo:** For Spring, sophisticated tailoring was paired with elegant make-up by Lisa Butler at Ferragamo, who added a little bronzer to the cheeks and smudged a maroon shade to frame the eyes

**Sportmax**: Another pared-back look was seen at Sportmax, where Anthony Turner and Charlotte Tilbury crafted a youthful combo of blow-dried hair and naturally bright faces

An image of models with big wavy hair was paired with a thickly lined eye and heavily blushed cheeks — **Versace:** Donatella's girls always look va-va-voom beautiful, and this season was no exception. Big wavy hair was paired with a thickly lined eye and heavily blushed cheeks

Tom Pecheux and Eugene Souleiman gave an enhanced look to the model — **Antonio Marras:** Tom Pecheux's focus was on colour, with bright fuchsia painted on the lips and a shade of aqua dusted on the eyelids. Eugene Souleiman's hair had a graphic feel, with an asymmetrical parting and stiff locks poking out from the back of the models' heads

**Trussardi:** Gaia Trussardi's summer collection was inspired by a Californian road trip. To match, the girls had wispy ponytails by stylist Sam McKnight and slightly blushed faces by Karim Rahman - perfectly echoing the freedom of the road

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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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