The new sleeve: blouses inflate with Victorian drama for A/W 2016
Photography: Phil Dunlop; Fashion: Lune Kuipers
The maximalism movement that’s been sweeping fashion for the past few seasons has taken hold of the sleeve for A/W 2016. At Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista Valli’s gauzy Swiss folk blouses had an elegant Victoriana vibe, inflated from above the elbow in ethereal silk voile. Ever the conceptualist, Junya Watanabe upscaled his to an avant-garde degree, while Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon toyed with a more subverted take on the smocked shirt, teaming their crisp cotton version with a patent pinafore, inspired by the anime character Sailor Moon fused with a naughty twist on the Japanese schoolgirl uniform.
In Milan, Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni rolled out a collection of rounded proportions, in turn proposing a detachable, balloon-sleeved model for those not quite ready to commit to the season’s new volume. That said, the inflated message is minimalist in its execution so as not to venture anywhere near the realm of costume.
As originally featured in the September 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*210)