New York A/W 2012: Grooming Trends

Alexander Wang
A sleek centre-parting with textured, wavy locks by Guido Palau, defined the hair at Alexander Wang
Writer: Rosa Bertoli
Alexander Wang
Diane Kendal sculpted razor-sharp cheekbones, and gave the rest of the face a natural glow
Altuzarra
Tom Pecheux gave the models a look that mixed the show’s Berber references with 1960s elegance, tracing (with extreme precision) a double black line over the lids and completing the look with emerald green accents
Altuzarra
Paul Hanlon structured wavy locks in keeping with the wild mood of the show
Calvin Klein
Pale complexions with matte lips and slightly shaded eyelids were perfectly in keeping with Calvin Klein’s signature simplicity
Calvin Klein
To counterbalance the composed volumes of Francisco Costa’s collection, the hair was extreme in the most minimal way possible
Diesel
Models at Diesel featured glowy complexions by Pat McGrath, who coloured both lips and lids in subtle shades
Diesel
The aggressive urban mood was interpreted by Guido Palau with a messy ponytail, complete with artificial sideburns to complement the show’s menswear attitude
DKNY
Eugene Souleiman styled the models with a simple low ponytail and a sleek side parting
DKNY
Charlotte Willer’s sophisticated look was accentuated by the full, dewy lips
Donna Karan
Charlotte Tilbury gave the lips and face a pearly shine, and applied a dramatic coat of cherry red eyeshadow to the lids, blending it at the edges of the eye
Donna Karan
Eugene Souleiman created an elegant yet simple do, twisting locks on one side
Lacoste
Hairstylist Laurent Philippon left things natural at Lacoste
Lacoste
Mayia Alleaume followed the hair’s natural lead with a hint of almost imperceptible blush on the cheeks and an impalpable shadow on the lids
Marc Jacobs
Colour reigned at Marc Jacobs, where Dick Page made a bold statement using the brightest shade of thick red lipstick, contrasted by a fine green line on the eyes
Marc Jacobs
To work both with and without the collection’s extreme makeup, Guido Palau combed the hair on one side and gathered it in a tight ponytail
Philip Lim
Another crimson eye at Phillip Lim. This time it’s a finer band contrasted by thick black eyeliner: a tri-dimensional look by Francelle Daly
Philip Lim
Odile Gilbert created a clean hairstyle with simple ponytails, in keeping with the show’s minimalist attitude
Ports 1961
Pat McGrath used a pastel palette to uniform the cheeks, with a hint of blushy pink on the lips and eyes
Ports 1961
Guido Palau kept hair very casual, with seemingly unkempt locks gently falling on the models’ faces
Proenza Schouler
Paul Hanlon gave the girls at Proenza Schouler a boyish look with the disheveled locks left to frame the face
Proenza Schouler
In an equally simple fashion, Diane Kendall left faces almost bare, giving a subtle glow to the lips and the eyelids
Ralph Lauren
Tom Pecheux took care of the serene complexion at Ralph Lauren, and focused the attention on the perfect cat-eye
Ralph Lauren
Guido Palau’s hair was smoothly pulled back in a low ponytail, secured tightly with a lock of hair
Rodarte
Interpreting the Australian inspiration behind the show, make-up artist James Kaliardos’ Outback girls featured heavily bronzed cheeks with just a dot of brilliant fuchsia
Rodarte
Bringing home the Australian desert references, Odile Gilbert imagined a wind storm to ruffle the models’ hair, which she tucked in to create a bob, decorated with oversized bobby pins
Thakoon
In keeping with Thakoon’s colour palette inspired by Amsterdam’s red light district, lips sported a matte, almost fluorescent shade of red, while faces had a simple glow
Thakoon
To contrast, hair was extremely ladylike, smoothly pulled up in a high French twist with a few straightened locks falling at the front
Thom Browne
The hair at Thom Browne was twirled up into a tight chignon, on which a geometric veil was pinned
Thom Browne
Thom Browne’s futuristic ladylike style included 1930s sharp eyebrows, smoky eyes with a focus on the lower lashes and silver foil lips
Tommy Hilfiger
Diane Kendal created an incredibly luminous complexion at Tommy Hilfiger, accentuated by a hint of gloss on the lips
Tommy Hilfiger
Eugene Souleiman simply pulled hair back into a central-parted, low ponytail
Victoria Beckham
Yet another bright red matte lipstick, setting the mood at Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham|
Hair on the other hand was simple and ladylike, brushed straight and with a sleek parting on one side
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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