Alexander Wang’s grooming dream team was made up of hairstylist Guido Palau for Redken and Sultra, makeup guru Diane Kendal for MAC, and Nonie Creme for Butter London, who did the nails. The look was relaxed but urban, with centre-parted wavy hair and drawing focus on to the graphically pencilled brows.
Altuzzara’s dramatic look last season involved dark ink spots sprayed onto model’s faces and hair. For fall, the girls took on a more glamour-inspired guise, with hairstylist Paul Hanlon for Fekkai and makeup artist Tom Pecheux for MAC pushing forward 1990s nonchalance with ’Hollywood boudoir’ glamour and sensuality.
Inspired by New York’s modernist crowd, DKNY gave each model a polished face with graphic eyeliner outlines on the eyes by Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York. Hair by Wella Professionals creative director Eugene Souleiman was scrunched up and wispy.
The theme of all-American glamour revisited was given a perfect outing at Diane Von Furstenberg when lead makeup artist James Kaliardos pitted the girls’ pouty red lips against black metallic eye shadow, and Orlando Pita created a sleek low ponytail to complete the look.
Thakoon’s fun-loving colour burst came through in eye-popping shades by Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics, while hair was embellished rather joyously with wool strips and pom poms by Odile Gilbert for Kerastase Paris.
Y-3 concentrated on geometrical half-moon eyeliner shapes by makeup maestro Pat McGrath, while deconstructed braiding by hairstylist Eugene Souleiman underscored the collection’s modern back-to-nature edge.
The polished 1970s look over at Tommy Hilfiger, where Diane Kendal’s minimal makeup using MAC was paired with straight glossy hair, styled into a clean centre parting and just a hint of texture through the body, under the direction of Eugene Souleiman.
Zero + Maria Cornejo’s collection reminded makeup artist Gucci Westman (Revlon’s global artistic director) of the desert goddess look, so she added touches of bronze and gold for a sunswept dusty look, with glossy lips to give things a modern twist.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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