Jil Sander S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Scene setting: In Milan, Luke and Lucie Meier have been flexing their art and design credentials. Earlier this spring at Salone del Mobile, the married creative duo collaborated with artist Linda Tegg on a living installation at Jil Sander’s Milan HQ. This week they announced its Via Sant’Andrea store would become a space for hosting monthly installations and exhibitions. The art of making – be it digital or artisanal – is essential to their approach at the brand – and for S/S 2020 the label created a gravel installation of otherworldly mounds, formed from 10 tonnes of stones, inside the outdoor courtyard Pinacoteca di Brera, a baroque arch-lined art gallery and cultural institution in Brera. The juxtaposition of raw materials presented against a finite, fourteenth century masterpiece, made for a striking show set composition.

Mood board: The Meiers’ spoke of a ‘harmony of opposites’, and Sander’s collection was an interplay of androgynous and sharp tailoring, and feminine fluid shapes, like column gowns and flaring dresses. The attention to detail was astonishing here, with marble prints – evoking both psychedelic swirls and Florentine marble paper – and black, navy and organic tones, embellished with crafty raffia embroidery, beading and tassels. A black tailored jacket had an usual keyhole cut-out at the chest, a flared dress was made from a delicate patchwork of cream, sand and silver squares, and a dark blouse had a a weaved funnel neck collar. Embellishment meets elemental, detail meets a subtle drape, opposites aligning in aesthetic splendor.

Finishing touches: Luke and Lucie have been evolving their accessories offering, with its braided strap Tangle Bag and sculptural Sombrero bag proving a hit. For S/S 2020 more interpretations were offered, including delicate minaudières with metal chains, soft clutches formed form a folded circle of leather and vintage style hand bags with futuristic padded straps.