Mood board: Each season, the imaginative, narratively-minded designer takes a historical deep dive into a female biography, be it Italian aristocrat Principessa Orietta Doria Pamphilj or the young Queen of England. For S/S 2020, Erdem Moralioglu was fascinated by the Italian model, silent film actress, and photographer Tina Modotti, who moved to the USA in 1913, before becoming a Communist activist and agent after relocating to Mexico in 1922. Moralioglu’s collection, incorporating voluminous ruffled gowns in metallic brocade, eyelet detail trenchcoats, striped capes and polka dot Victorian tailoring, nodded to the amalgamation of styles which Modotti adopted before her suspicious death in the back of a taxi in 1941, from vintage 19th century dress to utilitarian military wear.
Scene setting: Moralioglu held his S/S 2020 inside Gray's Inn Walks Gardens, one of London’s largest privately owned gardens, laid out by Sir Francis Bacon in 1608, and populated with an orchard, daffodils and wildflowers. Models walked down its extensive central gravel path, lined with American Red Oaks, with regal, emotive and otherworldly effect.
Team work: Moralioglu teamed up with Sierra-Leone born London-based stylist Ibrahim Kamara who has worked with Beyoncé, Stella McCartney and Nike. Here, Victorian sunhats, taffeta neckscarves and opera gloves were offset with floral foulard scarfs tied around the body like sashes, for militaristic, rebellious effect.
Erdem S/S 2020.
-
Click to buy: how will we buy watches in 2026?Time was when a watch was bought only in a shop - the trying on was all part of the 'white glove' sales experience. But can the watch industry really put off the digital world any longer?
-
Don't miss these art exhibitions to see in JanuaryStart the year with an inspiring dose of culture - here are the best things to see in January
-
Unmissable fashion exhibitions to add to your calendar in 2026From a trip back to the 1990s at Tate Britain to retrospectives on Schiaparelli, Madame Grès and Vivienne Westwood, 2026 looks set to continue the renaissance of the fashion exhibition
-
‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
