Scene setting: After a couple of seasons trying her hand at showing in different venues (last season’s show took place in the Carreau du Temple at the heart of the Marais), Sarah Burton was back this time to her beloved Orangerie in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Turns out the tall-ceilinged greenhouse building, surrounded by the park’s greenery, was the perfect setting for the designer’s latest outing. Inside, guests discovered a monolith reproduction of the Neolithic Avebury henge. Less known – and less touristy – than Stonehenge, the Wiltshire circle, with its shorter, rounder stones, is widely thought by archaeologists to reference femininity. It is also considered a place of religious importance by contemporary pagans. It was there that Sarah Burton’s inspiration for her latest collection began.
Soundbite: ‘I was thinking about sisterhood, about traditional women’s milestones and rituals: births, christenings, weddings, funerals. It’s about being strong and emotional, but also saying it’s ok to show your vulnerability; not to have to put a brave face on it,' explained Sarah Burton backstage after the show. In a week when – while designers were celebrating the feminine form in Paris –- the Kavanaugh hearings have been the main talking point in the news and among the fashion pack, one would not be blamed for wondering whether the #MeToo movement was, after all, of any real consequence. Burton’s reminder of the power of the feminine mystique could not have come at a better time.
Best in show: The clothes explored the theme through a historical lens: Burton and her team got out of the studio and into vintage markets to purchase a selection of Victorian wedding gowns and christening tunics, reimagining their broderie anglaise on asymmetrical dresses worn over buster trousers. They were combined with consistent leather pieces in black, white and red, sometimes embroidered with roses. Flowers were actually powerfully present all throughout the collection as prints – inspired, of course, by English gardens – and to counterpoint them was the simple grey and black tailoring. The most magical-infused looks, though, came towards the end: the evening gowns including chiffon, golden lace and leather corsets gave the models undeniable druidess vibes… and managed to somewhat restore our faith in the feminine mystic.
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
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This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
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How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
