Jacquemus S/S 2018

Mood board: A few months ago, during an interview, Simon Porte mysteriously mentioned that the collection he felt most proud of was the one he would present in Paris in September. Last evening we understood why. Even before the first look made its appearance, it was clear that something had changed: Santana’s rhythmic guitar is something one would never expect on a Jacquemus runway. Nor were the silk pareo-like skirts, dotted and fringed, the cotton gauze dresses held together by tiny straps or the barely-there transparent lurex minidresses. And yet it all felt unmistakably Jacquemus. As the designer said backstage, it was about French island girls, living everywhere from Corsica to the Caribbean. And if the interpretation felt literal, we can’t help but be excited by this new sexy Jacquemus.

Scene setting: As a backdrop for a collection full of Spanish winks (the polka dots, the mantilla style skirts, the music), Simon Porte chose the Musée Picasso, an hôtel particulier with a patio in the heart of the Marais which, inexplicably, had never before been used for a fashion event. It proved perfect, especially for the after party, where guests clad in Jacquemus’s trademark square-and-round heel shoes danced to Tito Puente. While in most fashion parties ‘more is more’ is the rule of thumb, here full effect was achieved with only a few garland lights placed around a lemon tree.

Finishing touches: Last season we witnessed Porte’s first foray into accessories, with cutout-effect bags in apple green and bubble-gum pink that quickly sold out. This time, both new bags and shoes were introduced. The sculpture-like heels looked particularly bankable, as did the long metal and ceramic earrings in the shape of lemons, spirals and Greek columns, sometimes paired with oversize straw hats worn over silk foulards tied to the head. All of which will no doubt be worn with gusto by Jacquemus fans all over the world.