Jacquemus A/W 2017

Mood board: Jacquemus’ Simon Porte has grown up. His collections are no longer synonymous with childlike innocence, but adult, carefully organised affairs with a very real commercial potential. This transition was even more obvious this season, as models carefully dressed mostly in black graced the catwalk. Boring? Not when the black piece is a capri pant, or a high-waisted torero-inspired skirt, or paired with a pastel coat. Did we miss the old Jacquemus, full of humour and lightness? Almost. But, on the other hand, he's probably the only designer who would make us desperately want to wear ruched capri pants.

Scene setting: Guests clumsily stumbled into a very dark space at the – not very central – Paris Event Center, which magically lit up as the music started playing. A guitar version of Edith Piaf's Sous le ciel de Paris sounded as the lights revealed a bubble gum pink felt catwalk that matched perfectly the black, ivory and pastel pink palette of the collection.

Finishing touches: The French designer might have found his adult voice when it comes to ready to wear, but his old naïveté was still there... in the accessories! Bags were almost omnipresent this time, most of them with colourful leather cutouts, held upside down by bright gold gourmette chains, although there were also rectangular designs in pale green, pink and blue as well as micro bags fit for a single lipstick. And yet, we'd bet our ruched capri pants that they'll be best-sellers.