Jacquemus A/W 2017

Mood board: Jacquemus’ Simon Porte has grown up. His collections are no longer synonymous with childlike innocence, but adult, carefully organised affairs with a very real commercial potential. This transition was even more obvious this season, as models carefully dressed mostly in black graced the catwalk. Boring? Not when the black piece is a capri pant, or a high-waisted torero-inspired skirt, or paired with a pastel coat. Did we miss the old Jacquemus, full of humour and lightness? Almost. But, on the other hand, he's probably the only designer who would make us desperately want to wear ruched capri pants.
Scene setting: Guests clumsily stumbled into a very dark space at the – not very central – Paris Event Center, which magically lit up as the music started playing. A guitar version of Edith Piaf's Sous le ciel de Paris sounded as the lights revealed a bubble gum pink felt catwalk that matched perfectly the black, ivory and pastel pink palette of the collection.
Finishing touches: The French designer might have found his adult voice when it comes to ready to wear, but his old naïveté was still there... in the accessories! Bags were almost omnipresent this time, most of them with colourful leather cutouts, held upside down by bright gold gourmette chains, although there were also rectangular designs in pale green, pink and blue as well as micro bags fit for a single lipstick. And yet, we'd bet our ruched capri pants that they'll be best-sellers.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
These are the best new interior design projects in Australia
From a beachside retreat to a modern butcher shop, the 2025 Australian Interior Design Awards highlight the multitude of talent down under
-
Scotland's most opulent passenger train just got even more lavish
To mark four decades connecting stops across the majestic highlands, Belmond’s Royal Scotsman has revealed even more plush sleeping cars
-
‘Designers are far more than just producers of commercial goods’: Samuel Ross on the London Design Biennale
The artistic director of the major event and founder of A-COLD-WALL* discusses the role of a designer and the future of the sector in an exclusive interview
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s