Marques'Almeida S/S 2016
LVMH Prize winners Marques'Almeida close LFW with a riot of raw-edged, ruffled tiers
Scene setting: The design duo's show notes said that above what was most important for them for S/S 2016 was to maintain their raw approach in spite of their May LVMH Prize win. What the cash injection did do was to afford Marta Marques and Paulo Almedia the luxury of being able to choose their preferred show space – in this case a dilapidated warehouse in London's Angel.
Mood board: Citing singer-songwriter Fiona Apple, best known for her soul searching storytelling in the Nineties, as muse, this season's collection continued the pair's signature unravelling and deconstructing. Co-ordinated, top and pant looks were a theme, with a backless halter neck taking centre stage in various states of distress and fabrications from suede to denim and even shot silk.
Best in show: Spring's re-occurring buckle fastening, which finished halter tops and silk blouses along with a particularly avant-garde hessian wrap skirt, made voluminous by its raw ruffle tiers. A trench in the same fabric was another example of how the pair's undone aesthetic continues to be refined without loosing any of its individuality.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
A new limited-edition Rhodes piano and Gibson doubleneck guitar aim for the stars
The new Rhodes Mk8 Earth Edition piano and Gibson Jimmy Page EDS-1275 Doubleneck guitar revisit classic instruments at a price
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
The new interior design trends we spotted at Salone del Mobile 2024
These are the interior design trends to look out for in 2024 and beyond, from soft upholstery to conversation pits and low dining
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
Tiffany & Co nods to its theatrical history with a surreal new campaign
Tiffany & Co campaign ‘With Love, Since 1837’ sees Dan Tobin Smith and set designer Rachel Thomas create an offbeat set
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated