We've talked a lot about fashion's obsession with athleticism this season, although it needs to be said that Julien Dossena's work at Paco Robanne put a real spring in our step. Opening with go-faster stripes that defined a curved harness dress, finished with hanging D rings, and layered over graphic plaid, we all wanted to be Dossena's 'girl' - just as his remix of Janet Jackson's 1993 hit 'If' hinted. Rejuvenating the house's hardware heritage, laced grommet detailing became a collection linchpin - some of the silver eyelets were used as functional loopholes, while others became a chain mail texture on flippy skirts and what may well be the season's most in-demand party sheaths. The Frenchman, who cut his teeth at Balenciaga, next extended this modernity to the house's signature glow mesh - his inky black skirts and dresses finished with a feminine ruffle that nixed any hangover sci-fi comparisons. This frill was also incorporated in his crisp cotton shirting that was slashed at the side and ruched at the waist to keep things interesting. Olympia-issue swimsuits were deconstructed with the same sense of fun. These Lycra looks were cut as halters, some missing scooped out stomach panels altogether. His trousers were similarly befitting of a gymnast's prowess and were finished with elastic foot loops that were worn either as stirrup leggings or left loose to hang as three-quarter pants. And for those of us who have been rejoicing since grey marl sweats became a respectable wardrobe staple, Dossena also offered an up-market version, the covetable fleck-effect re-invented as luxe knitwear.
