Miuccia Prada doesn't leave any press notes on her show seats so guessing what might be dancing in this designer's head - even after having actually watched the show - is one of fashion's greatest games. Prada started where she left off with resort: slim tailored suiting and separates in black cotton twill that were sewed up with visible double seams reminiscent of denim or workwear. From there, she plucked the same boxy, basic shapes in sheer black silk chiffon. The seams - raw and unravelling or taped into neater strips of brown leather - made the clothes look as if they had been turned inside out and left there. Even luxurious black on black brocade was taped up with leather trim and even bigger unfinished hems. Disheveled? Just a bit. Homemade? Definitely. In fact as the show progressed and we got thrown moody jacquards and colourful patchworks of vintage upholstery fabric, it appeared that Prada's final muse had emerged: a dark - no, goth - granny, trapped inside her attic, furiously stitching up every lost bolt of fabric she could muster from a long lost trunk.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
