Dries Van Noten A/W 2019 Paris Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: In 2017, Dior & I director Reiner Holzemer released the documentary Dries, an intimate portrait of the Belgian designer, which offered a year-spanning look into his life, and included visits to the designer’s breathtaking home and surrounding 55-acre gardens in Lier. Horticulture is a hallmark of the designer, and for A/W 2019, Noten was inspired by a renowned quote from Gertrude Stein’s 1913 poem Sacred Emily, ‘A Rose is a Rose is a Rose is a Rose’. The sentence is used to highlight that the nature of something can be denoted by just its name itself. Straight-talking and non-whimsical prints of photographs of roses from Noten’s garden populated the collection, which was a symphony of sleek pinstripe silhouettes in rich charcoal, and 1940s and 1950s couture-inspired eveningwear, including gold sequin pencil skirts, metallic chiffon blouses layered over men’s suiting, floral print column gowns and fake fur neon stoles.
Best in show: Underground at the Palais de Tokyo, a long catwalk was plunged into darkness. As each model entered the space, lights in the ceiling flickered on one by one to reveal her silhouette. A sleek black double breasted trouser suit, paired with a sleeping bag-like stole was particularly powerful, while a satin skirt suit with a bold delphinium print was green-fingered glam.
Finishing touches: Noten’s footwear has always been a driving force of his business, his renowned sculptural heels a symbol of eclectic Belgian style. For A/W 2019, ankle boots had clumpy, colour platform soles and longer knee-high styles were imagined in sugary silk shades.
Dries Van Noten A/W 2019
Dries Van Noten A/W 2019
Dries Van Noten A/W 2019
Dries Van Noten A/W 2019.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Glenn Sestig brings his fashion-infused design to a French Riviera flagship
The Belgian architect is the creative force behind the modern-meets-Mediterranean design of shoe label Morobé’s new store in Saint-Tropez
-
Stay in a pastel-hued Puglian palazzo as it starts a new chapter
A haven for the design-minded, Palazzo Daniele reopens following a thoughtful restoration by Milan-based Studio Palomba Serafini
-
‘As an artist, I’ve never felt more useful than now’: Steve McQueen on his monumental film screening in Amsterdam
The film director on why now felt like the right time to screen a previously unseen 34-hour version of his 2023 documentary ‘Occupied City’, on the façade of the Rijksmuseum
-
What the Wallpaper* editors are looking forward to at fashion week, from blockbuster debuts to rising stars
The Wallpaper* style team pick their highlights from the upcoming fashion month, a definitive season as the industry’s major players start their latest chapters, beginning in New York tomorrow
-
How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’
Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
-
‘Never copy the past’: how Nicolas Di Felice is taking Courrèges into the future
At Courrèges, artistic director Nicolas Di Felice is marrying radical thinking, raving and reinterpreted minimalist codes to give the French fashion house a new dynamism. Hannah Tindle heads to Paris to meet the designer
-
Ten boat shoes that put a playful twist on the footwear classic
From Miu Miu’s viral riff on the nautical staple to those that are studded, slip-on, square-toed or two-tone, the Wallpaper* team select the best boat shoes of the season – a style set to be ubiquitous over the coming months
-
Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and future
The Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
-
Art meets perfume in cross-disciplinary fragrance series Nez 1+1
Talents from film and fragrance come together to create Ansongo, the latest scent resulting from a creative matchmaking project by perfume revue Nez
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expect
Five moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear season
Between the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut