Three women, two wearing long, sleeveless tops in dark colours, and one in a sweater with road signs printed on it
(Image credit: Jason-Lloyd Evans)

For Mary Katrantzou, A/W was about symbolism, insignias, coats of arms and languages of codes, colours and motifs that inform belief. What it was not about was print, and the designer should be applauded for taking that leap this season. Katrantzou's intricately constructed dresses and gowns pulled towards her Grecian roots - linked by ancient medallions (or if you like, the embroidered badges awarded to Scouts or Girl Guides) - remixed through the designer's 'lexicon of luxury'. In Katranztou's hands these motifs were engineered into the most complex of appliqués, laces and brocades. The designer also flew the flag for goddess dressing, with asymmetrical pleating, victoriously draped over one shoulder or inserted into warrior-like pteruges skirts. This linear effect allowed room for her demi-couture needlework to breathe (she's clearly been back to Lesage), before chain mail was unleashed. As her armoured models marched down the runway, there was no doubt that it was a world away from the designer's digital beginnings. Yet no one seemed to care in the slightest, which Katrantzou should take as a sign in itself: a sign of triumph.

One image of two women, one wearing a long dress with road sign designs, and one wearing a shorter version. Second image has two women in dresses with coats of arms on the front

(Image credit: Jason-Lloyd Evans)

Two images; first shows a woman in a short sleeveless silver dress; second image shows a woman in a jacket and pleated skirt with leopard print

(Image credit: Jason-Lloyd Evans)

Four women, one in a silver jacket with leopard print design, two with chainmail dresses with metal shapes on the front, and one in a black outfit with colourful detailing

(Image credit: Jason-Lloyd Evans)

Two women in dresses with colourful detailing

(Image credit: Jason-Lloyd Evans)