For Mary Katrantzou, A/W was about symbolism, insignias, coats of arms and languages of codes, colours and motifs that inform belief. What it was not about was print, and the designer should be applauded for taking that leap this season. Katrantzou's intricately constructed dresses and gowns pulled towards her Grecian roots - linked by ancient medallions (or if you like, the embroidered badges awarded to Scouts or Girl Guides) - remixed through the designer's 'lexicon of luxury'. In Katranztou's hands these motifs were engineered into the most complex of appliqués, laces and brocades. The designer also flew the flag for goddess dressing, with asymmetrical pleating, victoriously draped over one shoulder or inserted into warrior-like pteruges skirts. This linear effect allowed room for her demi-couture needlework to breathe (she's clearly been back to Lesage), before chain mail was unleashed. As her armoured models marched down the runway, there was no doubt that it was a world away from the designer's digital beginnings. Yet no one seemed to care in the slightest, which Katrantzou should take as a sign in itself: a sign of triumph.
-
How to spot a fake Lamborghini: inside the sports car manufacturer’s Polo Storico divisionFake or fortune? We talk to the team of Lamborghini experts who can spot a priceless classic from a phoney
-
Meet The Good Plastic Company, rethinking the way we use plasticThis creatively responsible brand supplied, and recycled, the plastic plinths used in Wallpaper’s Milan Design Week exhibition. Here’s how it is reimagining the use and reuse of the contentious material
-
ALT Paris is a chic and fast-growing jewellery brand to knowThe brand, which has just opened its second Paris boutique, has mastered the art of luxurious minimalism
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
