Saint Laurent Men’s S/S 2020
Scene setting: Creative director Anthony Vaccarello has favoured Paris’ famed Trocadero as the locations of his runway shows. As guests leave the futuristic twinkling or mirrored panelled boxes he creates as his venues, they are illuminated by the dazzling lights of the Eiffel Tower. For his S/S 2020 menswear show, Vaccarello had something a little more naturalistic in mind, choosing to hold his show on sands of Paradise Beach in Malibu. Here models walked against the backdrop of dark crashing waves, with one side of the long board walk-like runway, lined with strips of mirror.
Mood board: In October 2017, the Studio Ko-designed Yves Saint Laurent Museum opened in Marrakesh, a brick-built physicalisation of the designer’s relationship with the city. It was there that Yves escaped the righty of Parisian society, and enjoyed decadent hashish-fuelled parties with Mick Jagger, Ossie Clark, Marianne Faithful, Anita Pallenberg and his neighbours John Paul and Talitha Getty. Vaccarello began his collection looking at Jagger’s bohemian, gender fluid and sparkling get ups from that period. He offset his favoured skinny silhouette with fluid and wide silken sequin trousers, paired with sparkling wrap shirts, sheer vests and flowing neck ties. Vaccarello believes Los Angeles has all the bohemianism, downtime and decadence of Marrakesh back in its Seventies heydey. His models walked the runway against swelling waves, like the city’s newest rock and roll icons.
Finishing touches: Jewellery evoked traditional Moroccan styles, and wrists were festooned with chunky bangles, and necklines swathed with bands of jangling metal coins. Wicker cowboy hats, aviators and dark shades completed Vaccarello’s Jagger-inspired style. §