Emporio Armani S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Men's

Emporio Armani S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: Armani’s influence on men’s suiting and style is legendary. In the 1980s, he moved tailoring in a totally new direction by relaxing it, un-lining linen jackets and easing trousers during an age preoccupied with the body beautiful. And with today’s social media etiquette demanding fitness and wellness, there’s a renewed athleticism in the air, a sporty, fluid attitude to dressing. And no one does it quite like Mr. Armani. His S/S 20 Emporio collection was entitled ‘Visions and Dreams’.

Best in show: The Teatro Armani, which usually stages big stadium sized shows, was more intimate this season. The black walls closed off rows of seats and guest sat on small cushioned benches. White acrylic sheets hovered above the catwalk as if the layers of a dream. Lightness was all. The spirit of clouds sleeping in the sky at night was there in the hyper-gloss shiny surfaces and dreamy movement of unstructured single or double breasted jackets in fine faded herringbone. They were paired with swishy palazzo and parachute pants in organza, linen, jute and silk. Washed suede tracksuits appeared alongside slubby linen knits. Drawstrings on shirt hems and shawl collars gave a sporty stance.

Team work: The show was closed by 20 Olympic athletes and nine Paralympians of the Italian team, each sporting their uniforms for Tokyo 2020. They took their turn on the catwalk wearing their EA7 tracksuits featuring graphics inspired by Japan – a long-standing reference for Armani. Racing car driver Alex Zanardi joined the beaming athletes to take a lap around a giant projection of the Italian flag to the rousing chorus of the 1977 disco track Love Is in the Air.

Backstage Emporio Armani S/S 2020 models wearing shiny fashion clothing — Emporio Armani S/S 2020. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Backstage Emporio Armani S/S 2020 models wearing shades of grey — Emporio Armani S/S 2020. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Males modelling backstage Emporio Armani S/S 2020 — Emporio Armani S/S 2020. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Males modelling shades of grey backstage Emporio Armani S/S 2020 — Emporio Armani S/S 2020. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

TOPICS

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.