Edward Crutchley S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Men's
Mood board: Much has been written about Cool Britannia. Artists were unabashed, music upbeat and fashion unapologetic. For S/S20, Crutchley recalled a stuffy Britain aghast at Ikea’s seminal ‘Chuck out your chintz’ TV commercial in 1996 and the hullaballoo that snobbish social climber Hyacinth Bucket created around herself in the much-loved BBC sitcom Keeping Up Appearances. His research explored the decline of the British floral and its function in the office codes of the aspirational middle-class. The clothes had a formal, dressed up mood and embellishment was swapped for a series of abundant prints.
Team work: Long standing collaborators Gianluigi Zoccheddu and Victoria Rickard of London-based Goldeo Jewellery created earrings inspired by Argos’s notorious Eternal Beau dinner service, first introduced in 1981 by the Johnson Brothers. Its pink ribbon bow was rendered in comedy proportions in copper with a single pearl. Milliner Stephen Jones looked to his own archives – Sunday best head wraps in Crutchley’s taffeta and technical silk lurex jacquard were modern revisions of a style from Jones’s very first collection, shown in 1980.
Sound bite: ‘I am interested in what isn’t cool. I am always drawn to pattern and rich textiles and historical references – I like what we aren’t meant to like. For me this season was about looking back but thinking ahead – fashion is the cyclical thing but I want to always look back too,’ Crutchley said. ‘In terms of dressing in a full look – it’s something I see people going to church in Peckham and Paris doing. It’s something you see in the North. Elements of modesty, counterbalanced with extravagance.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The Macallan Horizon with Bentley Motors is a decadent whisky with a luxurious twist
The Macallan and Bentley Motors release ‘The Macallan Horizon’, a single malt whisky with a 180-degree twisted presentation
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Ruby Dickson’s Kim Kardashian paintings explore celebrity culture in London
Ruby Dickson’s ‘Maybe my fairy-tale has a different ending than I dreamed it would. But that’s OK’ is exhibiting at Nicoletti gallery, London
By Sam Moore Published
-
Mayfair’s Murano offers beautiful design and incisively cooked food
Angela Hartnett’s Murano celebrates 15 years of Italian supremacy in London with a fresh look by Fabled Studio
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Burberry A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated