Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019

Mood board: Pure colours with muted overtones. The silhouette was uncomplicated with no dramatic flourishes in shapes or fabrics; after all, you don’t come here for bombast. Véronique Nichanian merged rich textiles with elegant colours. High above the courtyard catwalk space were washing lines draped in fresh white cotton shirts and boxer shorts. Nichanian proposed whites for evening wear. Other colours had a faded, sun-bleached quality. White became cement, zingy orange became ripe peach.
Best in show: The energy of Hermès menswear is inexorably low-key but the clothes for S/S 2019 had a summery urgency to them – a cool attentive leisureliness. Windbreakers were in rubberised lambskin, blousons had striped ribbing and hooded sweatshirts came in leather. Standout was a three button jacket in crumpled white linen worn with joggers in putty, cotton serge.
Finishing touches: Leather is a tricky fabric to tailor yet Nichanian cut suits in supple Étrivière lambskin in bottle green and grey that moved like denim. Her understated point of view was loud and clear. The fabrics demanded a second look. Cotton twill outerwear was lined in lambskin; polo shirts were in cashmere and silk. Parkas and three-button jackets were thrown over pullovers or zipped-collar t-shirts. Throughout there was a peppy, poised ambiguity. Summer athleticism in the finest finishes. Très quiet. Trop chic.
Hermès S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Hermès S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Hermès S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Hermès S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Can design make you healthier? Inside the architecture of wellness
As wellness-focused Gen Z enters the marketplace, buildings are no longer being viewed as merely containers for living and working – they're environments that influence physical and mental wellbeing. How can we create spaces that support health and humanity?
-
Les Domaines de Chabran redefines the Provençal summer house
Architect Alain Meylan and interior designer Liliana Atilova bring contemporary finesse to centuries-old country houses in southern France. Discover their latest
-
This designer’s Montecito home – once a modest wood cabin – has been transformed into a charming sanctuary
Originally built by architect Lutah Maria Riggs, this compact family home has been reimagined by another influential female designer – Tamara Honey of House of Honey – who has imbued the space with her signature touch
-
Wild side: the story behind our September 2025 Style Issue cover shoot
An animalistic mood permeated the A/W 2025 collections, captured by Nicole Maria Winkler and Jason Hughes in our September 2025 Style Issue cover shoot. Here, they tell the story behind the pictures
-
How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’
Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
-
‘Never copy the past’: how Nicolas Di Felice is taking Courrèges into the future
At Courrèges, artistic director Nicolas Di Felice is marrying radical thinking, raving and reinterpreted minimalist codes to give the French fashion house a new dynamism. Hannah Tindle heads to Paris to meet the designer
-
Power suits, thigh-high boots, dangerous glamour: these looks capture A/W 2025’s defining trends
From riffs on the working uniform to a mood of dangerous glamour, the A/W 2025 collections encapsulated in 12 distinctive looks and accessories
-
Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and future
The Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
-
Art meets perfume in cross-disciplinary fragrance series Nez 1+1
Talents from film and fragrance come together to create Ansongo, the latest scent resulting from a creative matchmaking project by perfume revue Nez
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expect
Five moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear season
Between the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut