Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019

Mood board: Pure colours with muted overtones. The silhouette was uncomplicated with no dramatic flourishes in shapes or fabrics; after all, you don’t come here for bombast. Véronique Nichanian merged rich textiles with elegant colours. High above the courtyard catwalk space were washing lines draped in fresh white cotton shirts and boxer shorts. Nichanian proposed whites for evening wear. Other colours had a faded, sun-bleached quality. White became cement, zingy orange became ripe peach.

Best in show: The energy of Hermès menswear is inexorably low-key but the clothes for S/S 2019 had a summery urgency to them – a cool attentive leisureliness. Windbreakers were in rubberised lambskin, blousons had striped ribbing and hooded sweatshirts came in leather. Standout was a three button jacket in crumpled white linen worn with joggers in putty, cotton serge.

Finishing touches: Leather is a tricky fabric to tailor yet Nichanian cut suits in supple Étrivière lambskin in bottle green and grey that moved like denim. Her understated point of view was loud and clear. The fabrics demanded a second look. Cotton twill outerwear was lined in lambskin; polo shirts were in cashmere and silk. Parkas and three-button jackets were thrown over pullovers or zipped-collar t-shirts. Throughout there was a peppy, poised ambiguity. Summer athleticism in the finest finishes. Très quiet. Trop chic.