Dior Men at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019
Kim Jones unveils his inaugural debut show for the maison
Mood board: The S/S 2019 season is jam-packed with firsts. Simon Porte Jacquemus will launch his men’s collection with a show in Marseille, Virgil Abloh presented his debut at Louis Vuitton and Kim Jones unveiled his vision for Maison Dior. Journalists who had seen a preview waxed lyrical about Jones’s hi-res haute, with floral patterns drawn from Dior’s personal porcelain, and feather embroideries by Maison Lemarié overlaid in vinyl to look like glazed china. The toile de jouy chosen for the original boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne is resurrected as a new logo. Jones spent seven years at Louis Vuitton nurturing a smart, sports-lux approach, making sophisticated elegant clothes in the finest textiles. At Dior he has set the bar even higher, ramping up the richness, the mood and the metier.
Best in show: There’s a hunger for hardcore tailoring and bespoke detailing in the air. In episode one of Maison Margiela’s podcast: ‘The Memory of… With John Galliano’, the designer talks about a yearning for glamour ahead of his men’s Artisanal debut. Rei Kawakubo riffed on suits at Comme des Garçons; at Brioni, Nina-Maria Nitsche showed an exquisite double breasted jacket in vintage kimono fabrics that will be made to order. At last there is some resistance to the streetwear modus operandi. At Dior, a wrap-around jacket style pays homage to the silhouette of the brand’s A/W 1950 couture collection; shirts cowl at back to reveal the nape of the neck. The collection had a dialled down lightness and ease to balance the current mood for crisp, tailored perfection. Suiting was in light cashmere and summer mohair. Sheer pinstripe trousers were paired with repeat logo lace vests and monogram high-top sneakers.
Team work: American artist KAWS reinterpreted the brand’s classic bee motif which flitted across the collection; the show set featured a giant KAWS BFF figure constructed by Eric Chauvin using some 70,000 roses. Yoon of Ambush designed the jewellery using the iconic CD logo, flowers and insects. Matthew Williams of cult brand 1017 ALYX 9SM created a new metal buckle for the house, while longstanding Dior collaborator Stephen Jones crafted millinery based on original menswear styles in the archives.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The McLaren W1 is the latest in the sports car maker's tech-saturated Ultimate Series
First F1, then P1 and now W1, McLaren Automotive reveals its latest limited edition supercar to the world, a £2m concoction of hybrid power and active aero that is, unsurprisingly, already sold out
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Paul Rudolph at The Met: ‘from Christmas lights to megastructures’
‘Materialized Space: The Architecture of Paul Rudolph’ opens at the Met in New York, exploring the modernist master's work through a feast of an exhibition
By Stephanie Murg Published
-
‘London: Lost Interiors’ gathers unseen imagery of some of the capital’s most spectacular homes
This new monograph is a fascinating foray into the interior life of London, charting changing tastes, emerging styles and the shifting social history of grand houses in the heart of a fast-changing city
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated