Mood board: The S/S 2019 season is jam-packed with firsts. Simon Porte Jacquemus will launch his men’s collection with a show in Marseille, Virgil Abloh presented his debut at Louis Vuitton and Kim Jones unveiled his vision for Maison Dior. Journalists who had seen a preview waxed lyrical about Jones’s hi-res haute, with floral patterns drawn from Dior’s personal porcelain, and feather embroideries by Maison Lemarié overlaid in vinyl to look like glazed china. The toile de jouy chosen for the original boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne is resurrected as a new logo. Jones spent seven years at Louis Vuitton nurturing a smart, sports-lux approach, making sophisticated elegant clothes in the finest textiles. At Dior he has set the bar even higher, ramping up the richness, the mood and the metier.
Best in show: There’s a hunger for hardcore tailoring and bespoke detailing in the air. In episode one of Maison Margiela’s podcast: ‘The Memory of… With John Galliano’, the designer talks about a yearning for glamour ahead of his men’s Artisanal debut. Rei Kawakubo riffed on suits at Comme des Garçons; at Brioni, Nina-Maria Nitsche showed an exquisite double breasted jacket in vintage kimono fabrics that will be made to order. At last there is some resistance to the streetwear modus operandi. At Dior, a wrap-around jacket style pays homage to the silhouette of the brand’s A/W 1950 couture collection; shirts cowl at back to reveal the nape of the neck. The collection had a dialled down lightness and ease to balance the current mood for crisp, tailored perfection. Suiting was in light cashmere and summer mohair. Sheer pinstripe trousers were paired with repeat logo lace vests and monogram high-top sneakers.
Team work: American artist KAWS reinterpreted the brand’s classic bee motif which flitted across the collection; the show set featured a giant KAWS BFF figure constructed by Eric Chauvin using some 70,000 roses. Yoon of Ambush designed the jewellery using the iconic CD logo, flowers and insects. Matthew Williams of cult brand 1017 ALYX 9SM created a new metal buckle for the house, while longstanding Dior collaborator Stephen Jones crafted millinery based on original menswear styles in the archives.
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Head to Puerto Escondido, a hot spot of eco-friendly hotels for the architecturally adventurousAs a bucolic cluster of beach towns evolves on Mexico’s Oaxacan coast, there’s hope that Puerto Escondido can prove a guiding light in responsible tourism; Eric Millman went to find out more
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COS and Studio Ashby champion women artists with a colourful interiors takeoverFashion label COS unites with the London-based interior design studio to curate an eclectic series of works which champion women artists in its stores in London, Paris and Helsinki
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Rolex and photographer Cristina Mittermeier work to protect our oceansThe conservation photographer and Rolex Testimonee is highlighting the need to support marine life
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
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This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
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How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
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Inside Sarah Burton’s debut show for Givenchy: ‘To go forward, you have to go back to the beginning’This morning in Paris, the former Alexander McQueen designer unveiled her anticipated debut as creative director of Givenchy – a musing on contemporary womanhood sparked by the discovery of lost Hubert de Givenchy pattern pieces
