Mood board: A proud display of hetero-elegance is distinctly provocative at a time when elsewhere, menswear is making way for a radical revision of masculinity: from the rich, lustrous textiles and frills at Gucci to the queer club-kid get-up of London label Art School. Mr Armani has been at the front line of sensuality with a butch machismo for decades – his models are square-jawed and floppy haired. They have an aromatic brawn.
Best in show: For S/S 2019 the designer presented a wardrobe that was both genteel and freeing. Double-breasted jackets featured, softened from their upright, sartorial stiffness and worn in ways that were easy and relaxed. He offered tailoring for the beach; blousons for the boardroom. Classic Armani looks were re-proportioned, shoulders slightly oversized, trousers wide and turned up at the hem.
Finishing touches: Armani’s gorgeous greiges were here in vibrant, lighter hues: from chalky white – like cliffs by the sea – to natural hemp grey. Lightweight fabrics in blue with turquoise, jade green and sand encouraged a more sun-bleached, sunny look. There was heritage and humour too. Armani’s portrait was embroidered on a black backpack, whilst sweatshirts reintroduced the rounded GA logo from the eighties. It’s the athletic gracefulness we want from the man who invented modern tailoring.
-
The Chancery Rosewood: A new chapter for London’s modernist iconAfter years behind closed doors, London’s most anticipated hotel opening finally arrives, proving that some things are worth waiting for
-
Fender American Professional Classic models are the pinnacle of the guitar maker’s craftWe visit Fender’s California factory to see the latest American Professional Classic models take shape
-
Apple and Design Miami celebrate the new guard of creativity with the inaugural Designers of TomorrowApple and Design Miami's Designers of Tomorrow make Paris debut with a cohort of four designers, including Atelier Duyi Han, Jolie Ngo, Marie & Alexandre, and Marco Campardo
-
The story behind Gian Paolo Barbieri’s cinematic fashion photography, which helped define the 1990sA new Milan exhibition explores the legacy of Gian Paolo Barbieri, a photographer who would shape a vision of Italian style alongside collaborators Versace, Armani and Valentino
-
The key takeaways from the S/S 2026 shows: freedom, colour and romance define fashion’s new chapterWe unpack the trends and takeaways from the S/S 2026 season, which saw fashion embrace a fresh start with free-spirited collections and a bold exploration of colour and form
-
The independent designers you might have missed from fashion month S/S 2026Amid a tidal wave of big-house debuts, we take you through the independent displays that may have slipped through the cracks – from beautiful imagery to bookshop takeovers, museum displays and moves across the pond
-
From wearable skincare to scented runways, unpacking the unconventional beauty moments of fashion month S/S 2026The S/S 2026 season featured everything from probiotic-lined athleisure to fragranced runways – and those Maison Margiela mouthguards
-
In Milan, the fashion world gathers to say goodbye to Giorgio Armani at his final showOriginally planned to mark the 50th anniversary of Giorgio Armani’s eponymous house, Sunday evening’s runway show at Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera would prove to be the last from the designer, who passed away earlier this month aged 91
-
Dario Vitale makes sexually-charged debut for Versace, inspired by the ‘bold attitude’ of Gianni VersaceSucceeding Donatella Versace, the ex-Miu Miu design director is the first to helm the brand outside of the Versace family. His debut last night in Milan was staged within the opulent rooms of Pinacoteca Ambrosiana
-
The standout shows of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2026This season in Milan, the city is enjoying a wave of creative director debuts, from Demna at Gucci to Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta. Here are the Wallpaper* highlights so far
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* teamFrom 23-29 September, Milan Fashion Week takes place in Italy’s fashion capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other style happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* style editors
