Mood board: This was Haider Ackermann’s sophomore collection for Berluti, the LVMH-owned luxury brand best known for its leather savoir-faire. His signature was all over the staging, the casting and the easy, believable lavishness of the clothes. S/S 2018 was inspired by the colour palette of American-German photographer Erwin Blumenfeld; to wit, the collection features the same hues of pinkish greys, sunbleached amber and powdery blues and gold. There was a modernist athleticism to the wide leg, easy-fit trackpants and light cashmere coats offered in a range of cool colours.
Finishing touches: Ackermann subverted textile and silhouette; a utilitarian tank top was in silk jersey, the lining of jogging pants and the waistband of trousers in the finest silk. The accessories were luxury from inside out – a tote bag in double-faced leather was black on the outside and dove-grey on the inside. A flat slipper made from a single piece of soft nubuck leather came from the classic Alessandro Oxford shoe, adding a bohemian loucheness to the exquisite collection.
Scene setting: The staging for the show was the courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris on the Left Bank – it felt true to Haider Ackerman’s luxuriously intimate and sensuous presentations for his namesake label. Models walked from all angles across the cobbled floor, crossing over, walking fast and then slow – men, women, they were there and suddenly not. It was rigorous and aggressively modern: this is a proposition for those who are not interested in the details of being told how to look. No, the Berluti customer is sure of that. Stella Tenant walked in the show wearing a reductivist long black leather coat with a fine-knit jumper and white silk trousers, joined by fellow model Finnlay Davis in the same look. A radical gesture, delivered with extreme elegance.
-
A new Athens gallery is a celebration of old and new, a stone's throw from the AcropolisNew Athens gallery Melas Martinos by Local Local is a contemporary art space, a stone's throw from the Acropolis, in the Greek capital's Monastiraki neighbourhood
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: live updates from the Wallpaper* teamFrom 7-9 July, Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 arrives in Paris. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
Boundaries between art and life dissolve in Katherine Hubbard's intimate documentation of her mother's illnessIn 'The Great Room', Katherine Hubbard merges caregiving for her mother with an unflinching documentary of the process
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
