Mood board: This was Haider Ackermann’s sophomore collection for Berluti, the LVMH-owned luxury brand best known for its leather savoir-faire. His signature was all over the staging, the casting and the easy, believable lavishness of the clothes. S/S 2018 was inspired by the colour palette of American-German photographer Erwin Blumenfeld; to wit, the collection features the same hues of pinkish greys, sunbleached amber and powdery blues and gold. There was a modernist athleticism to the wide leg, easy-fit trackpants and light cashmere coats offered in a range of cool colours.
Finishing touches: Ackermann subverted textile and silhouette; a utilitarian tank top was in silk jersey, the lining of jogging pants and the waistband of trousers in the finest silk. The accessories were luxury from inside out – a tote bag in double-faced leather was black on the outside and dove-grey on the inside. A flat slipper made from a single piece of soft nubuck leather came from the classic Alessandro Oxford shoe, adding a bohemian loucheness to the exquisite collection.
Scene setting: The staging for the show was the courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris on the Left Bank – it felt true to Haider Ackerman’s luxuriously intimate and sensuous presentations for his namesake label. Models walked from all angles across the cobbled floor, crossing over, walking fast and then slow – men, women, they were there and suddenly not. It was rigorous and aggressively modern: this is a proposition for those who are not interested in the details of being told how to look. No, the Berluti customer is sure of that. Stella Tenant walked in the show wearing a reductivist long black leather coat with a fine-knit jumper and white silk trousers, joined by fellow model Finnlay Davis in the same look. A radical gesture, delivered with extreme elegance.
-
Zayed National Museum opens as a falcon-winged beacon in Abu DhabiFoster + Partners’ Zayed National Museum opens on the UAE’s 54th anniversary, paying tribute to the country's founder and its ancient, present and evolving future
-
Design Miami announces Dubai collectible design platform in collaboration with AlserkalThe new platform will honour the region’s cultural heritage while highlighting its spirit of innovation
-
Four new keyboards are fresh and functional desktop companionsMechanical keyboards are all the rage, bringing with them new ways of personalising your desktop. We’ve found four devices that hark back to the early days of computing
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
