Mood board: There is an exhaustive rigour to Giorgio Armani. For S/S 2018 his classic sense of suntanned machismo was maintained as each of the models circled an illuminated track with ‘Made in Armani’ emblazoned behind them. Armani has been in the business – and independently owned – for more than 40 years. This show made a statement of his singularity. It opened with a long, double breasted frock coat in linen faithful to the designer’s legendary oeuvre, and continued with a number of well tailored separates in tones of grey, white and navy. From the wide-leg seersucker trousers, to the quilted two-button jackets and suede blousons, this is Armani’s own brand of chic. It is a style that goes in and out of fashion. But it is a lifestyle that you keep forever.
Scene setting: Walking into the brand’s HQ on Via Bergognone is like stepping out of the real world. Here is a cosmos of thick polished concrete walls, sinuous shadow and light. Japanese architect Tadao Ando was commissioned to convert the former Nestlé chocolate factory in 2000 – its central theatre has provided the venue to all of Mr Armani’s shows ever since. It is an exclusive, elegant grey catacomb where men are well tanned and well suited.
Best in show: Made in India, made in China, made in Armani. Standout was an oversize trench worn with tote bag marked with Armani’s own signature and the washed silk suits in steely grey worn with minimalist sneakers. Loafers were worn as slippers, their backs nonchalantly crushed down in a way that was amazingly audacious and amazingly Armani.
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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