Martine Rose S/S 2018

(Image credit: TBC)

Mood board: Martine Rose explored pieces worn by ‘outdoor types’. She translated the clothing of golfers, climbers and ramblers into a contemporary, cool wardrobe of oversized sportswear and reinterpretations of recognisable pieces from raincoats to Alpine sweaters and thick fleece. Rose also cited Trevor Hughes’ street portraits of bicycle couriers taken in the 1990s in Toronto. They embody a male athleticism that is less pomp and more pragmatism; Rose’s vision of masculine identity is as complicated as it is concise.

Best in show: Classic patterns such as checks and stripes were worn alongside grandad suiting and layered money belts. Standout was the reimagined outerwear; from a brawny zip-up fleece cut in couture volumes to patch technical jackets in bright red, purple and forest green.

Scene setting: Rose’s label has been based in Tottenham for a decade. Last season she hosted her buzzy show at Seven Sisters Market and for S/S 2018 she stayed local again, inviting guests to an indoor climbing centre. Aesthetically the interior of the space, complete with its brightly coloured footholds and mock rock walls made for a good backdrop for showing seasonal fashions – but Rose’s aim is bigger than the photo opportunity on offer. With every outing she revels in the diversity and the magic of her city. And she’s encouraging more of us to do the same.

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.