Mood board: Martine Rose explored pieces worn by ‘outdoor types’. She translated the clothing of golfers, climbers and ramblers into a contemporary, cool wardrobe of oversized sportswear and reinterpretations of recognisable pieces from raincoats to Alpine sweaters and thick fleece. Rose also cited Trevor Hughes’ street portraits of bicycle couriers taken in the 1990s in Toronto. They embody a male athleticism that is less pomp and more pragmatism; Rose’s vision of masculine identity is as complicated as it is concise.
Best in show: Classic patterns such as checks and stripes were worn alongside grandad suiting and layered money belts. Standout was the reimagined outerwear; from a brawny zip-up fleece cut in couture volumes to patch technical jackets in bright red, purple and forest green.
Scene setting: Rose’s label has been based in Tottenham for a decade. Last season she hosted her buzzy show at Seven Sisters Market and for S/S 2018 she stayed local again, inviting guests to an indoor climbing centre. Aesthetically the interior of the space, complete with its brightly coloured footholds and mock rock walls made for a good backdrop for showing seasonal fashions – but Rose’s aim is bigger than the photo opportunity on offer. With every outing she revels in the diversity and the magic of her city. And she’s encouraging more of us to do the same.
Martine Rose S/S 2018
Martine Rose S/S 2018
Martine Rose S/S 2018
Martine Rose S/S 2018
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Arthur Casas reimagines Villa Dubrovnik as a modern Adriatic retreatThe Brazilian architect brings poetic restraint and light to Croatia’s most elegant coastal hotel
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14 of the best new books for music buffsFrom music-making tech to NME cover stars, portable turntables and the story behind industry legends – new books about the culture and craft of recorded sound
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Margaret Howell marks 55 years in business by reissuing pieces from her archiveThe stalwart of British design will reissue a series of archival silk scarves to celebrate the landmark anniversary, alongside an era-traversing exhibition of foulards at the brand’s Wigmore Street store
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
