Mood board: S/S 2018 marks Raimund Berthold’s debut runway show at London Fashion Week Men – the Central Saint Martins graduate has been showing presentations since A/W 2015. For spring, the Austrian-born designer was moved by a series of photographs of child soldiers in Sub-Saharan Africa. From French army cavalry coats to garb worn by the British army during World War Two, Berthold often looks to military uniforms for inspiration, and he was struck by the oversized outfits worn by child soldiers, grown up too soon, in attire swallowing their frames. This was explored in the designer’s use of exaggerated silhouettes – designs in his idiosyncratic technical fabrics, in both black and bold sou’wester yellow – featuring wide funnel necks and trailing enlarged sleeves and including monastic wrap front trousers and oversized ponchos.
Finishing touches: A bright graphic print in yellow, cyan and red signalled a new exploration of colour for the designer. This was featured on blankets that were folded over the shoulder, and secured with utilitarian pocket-detail bags worn across the body. Reflecting Berthold’s preoccupation with conflict and release, accessories were tied and pulled across the frame, with the straps of huge backpacks secured in a knot at the front of the body.
Team work: For the set of his first fully fledged catwalk show, Berthold worked with artist and regular collaborator Justyna Kabala, who devised a series of brushed steel columns.
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How to be butch: Clark Henley’s sharp, satirical and playful manual is back in printThe 1982 classic, ‘The Butch Manual: The Current Drag and How to Do It’, full of tongue-in-cheek advice, is available once again
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Aston Martin goes goth, ramping up power, poise and dark glamour with the new Vantage SThese moody images mark the debut of the latest model out of Gaydon, the dynamically focused Aston Martin Vantage S
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After decades capturing the world’s fashion-set, photographer Johnny Rozsa picks up a paint brushIn his first exhibition of paintings, the New York-based artist celebrates the vibrancy of Tangier while rediscovering a familiar creative outlet
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
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Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
