Mood board: S/S 2018 marks Raimund Berthold’s debut runway show at London Fashion Week Men – the Central Saint Martins graduate has been showing presentations since A/W 2015. For spring, the Austrian-born designer was moved by a series of photographs of child soldiers in Sub-Saharan Africa. From French army cavalry coats to garb worn by the British army during World War Two, Berthold often looks to military uniforms for inspiration, and he was struck by the oversized outfits worn by child soldiers, grown up too soon, in attire swallowing their frames. This was explored in the designer’s use of exaggerated silhouettes – designs in his idiosyncratic technical fabrics, in both black and bold sou’wester yellow – featuring wide funnel necks and trailing enlarged sleeves and including monastic wrap front trousers and oversized ponchos.
Finishing touches: A bright graphic print in yellow, cyan and red signalled a new exploration of colour for the designer. This was featured on blankets that were folded over the shoulder, and secured with utilitarian pocket-detail bags worn across the body. Reflecting Berthold’s preoccupation with conflict and release, accessories were tied and pulled across the frame, with the straps of huge backpacks secured in a knot at the front of the body.
Team work: For the set of his first fully fledged catwalk show, Berthold worked with artist and regular collaborator Justyna Kabala, who devised a series of brushed steel columns.
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Arthur Casas reimagines Villa Dubrovnik as a modern Adriatic retreatThe Brazilian architect brings poetic restraint and light to Croatia’s most elegant coastal hotel
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14 of the best new books for music buffsFrom music-making tech to NME cover stars, portable turntables and the story behind industry legends – new books about the culture and craft of recorded sound
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Margaret Howell marks 55 years in business by reissuing pieces from her archiveThe stalwart of British design will reissue a series of archival silk scarves to celebrate the landmark anniversary, alongside an era-traversing exhibition of foulards at the brand’s Wigmore Street store
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
