Gucci S/S 2017
Milan’s man-of-the-moment, Alessandro Michele proves that he has an endless source of tricks up his quirky little sleeves for Gucci
Mood board: Now that half of the shows in Milan suspiciously resemble past creations invented by Alessandro Michele at Gucci, it’s a relief to see the designer has an endless source of tricks up his quirky little sleeves. His mood for Gucci is still maximal, the beat still odd-ball, the men still gender-bent and the workmanship still wafting in sky-high luxurious clouds. But somehow, it all still manages to look different. This season’s play with colour blocking had a distinctively 1970s feel: pink flood pants with lavender jackets or warm tobacco pants paired with a mint turtleneck, coupled with chinoiseries, patchworks and embroideries. It gave us yet another fashion fest with a capital F, for full-on.
Best in show: The craftsmanship at Gucci continues to dazzle nearly every piece in the collection. A boring white leather bomber jacket for example was set ablaze with an intricate green floral intarsia that appeared like wisteria growing like mad, while rich chinoiserie short suits were embroidered with lettering and worn with black lace granny socks.
Finishing touches: As usual the sheer quantity of accessories on the runway was enough to make the front row’s heads spin. From fingers crusted with a pirate’s bootie of gem-filled rings, old-fashioned colourful bow ties that brightened up off-kilter jackets and funny cropped 1970s ties, to the requisite eyewear. And while half the world is in love with Michele’s reprise of the sleek Gucci horsebit loafer – he turned that trend on its head by re-proposing the horsebit loafer in a geek heeled version with shiny crinkled leather that has not been in style since Liberace ruled the stage. Just you wait…
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans