Mood board: While Hedi Slimane hasn't strayed far from his initial propositions for the venerable French fashion house, he continues to supersede his own too-cool-for-school benchmarks. This season, the 77 looks (nearly one third were women's wear) resulted in a luxed-up Youthquake centered in, where else, Southern California. Think ripped skinny jeans, scuffed white sneakers, plaid shirts, baby doll dresses, choker necklaces, denim vests - all the stuff of 1990s grunge and thrift stores re-contextualised as a provocation on high-low dressing.
Team work: If Slimane remains ever elusive, his established practice of multi-tasking the invitation as a compact art catalogue offered a glimpse of his visual headspace. For this collection, he showcased artist was Billy Al Bengston, an 81-year-old American known for his soft focus, geometric paintings and associations with surf subculture and the famed Fergus Gallery. Slimane also enlisted The Swimmers, a Philadelphia-based rock group, to create an original soundtrack. 'Like Harry Dean Stanton' even had Lenny Kravitz nodding his head to the charged bass line.
Best in show: The jackets - whether hand-embroidered and tux-style, or highly embellished teddies - were unmistakably couture level as far as surface detail. Among the latter: a version that interpreted an artwork by Lucia Ribisi (daughter of actor Giovanni) as embroidery. Others covered in suede fringes atop beadwork, sequined confetti, animal print encrustations and tapestry revived the notion of glam rock.
-
Gary Hume on creating Burberry’s medical-green show set, which revisits the artist’s 1990 work ‘Bays’Gary Hume opens up to Wallpaper* about collaborating with Daniel Lee on the show set for the designer’s S/S 2025 Burberry show, which took place this afternoon (16 September 2024) in the Brutalist lobby of London’s National Theatre
-
Rolex and Wallpaper* present the first authorised history of the Submariner watchRolex and Wallpaper* partner to publish ‘Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch that Unlocked the Deep’, written by Nicholas Foulkes. The launch includes a silk-bound limited edition, available now
-
Exclusive archive images spotlight Flos’ most iconic lamps and their creatorsFlos presents ‘Icons’, a visual story featuring 12 key lamps designed by great masters of design for the Italian lighting specialist
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Loewe to ChanelFashion Week returns to form in the French capital. Here is everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Doug Aitken creates reflective artwork for Saint Laurent in VeniceFor the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 show, the brand’s first physical catwalk presentation since the Covid-19 pandemic began, American artist Doug Aitken created the living artwork Green Lens, on Venice's Isola della Certosa
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
