Mood board: While Hedi Slimane hasn't strayed far from his initial propositions for the venerable French fashion house, he continues to supersede his own too-cool-for-school benchmarks. This season, the 77 looks (nearly one third were women's wear) resulted in a luxed-up Youthquake centered in, where else, Southern California. Think ripped skinny jeans, scuffed white sneakers, plaid shirts, baby doll dresses, choker necklaces, denim vests - all the stuff of 1990s grunge and thrift stores re-contextualised as a provocation on high-low dressing.
Team work: If Slimane remains ever elusive, his established practice of multi-tasking the invitation as a compact art catalogue offered a glimpse of his visual headspace. For this collection, he showcased artist was Billy Al Bengston, an 81-year-old American known for his soft focus, geometric paintings and associations with surf subculture and the famed Fergus Gallery. Slimane also enlisted The Swimmers, a Philadelphia-based rock group, to create an original soundtrack. 'Like Harry Dean Stanton' even had Lenny Kravitz nodding his head to the charged bass line.
Best in show: The jackets - whether hand-embroidered and tux-style, or highly embellished teddies - were unmistakably couture level as far as surface detail. Among the latter: a version that interpreted an artwork by Lucia Ribisi (daughter of actor Giovanni) as embroidery. Others covered in suede fringes atop beadwork, sequined confetti, animal print encrustations and tapestry revived the notion of glam rock.
-
The White House faced the wrecking ball. Are these federal buildings next?Architects and preservationists weigh in on five buildings to watch in 2026, from brutalist icons to the 'Sistine Chapel' of New Deal art
-
Georgia Kemball's jewellery has Dover Street Market's stamp of approval: discover it hereSelf-taught jeweller Georgia Kemball is inspired by fairytales for her whimsical jewellery
-
The best way to see Mount Fuji? Book a stay hereAt the western foothills of Mount Fuji, Gora Kadan’s second property translates imperial heritage into a deeply immersive, design-led retreat
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Loewe to ChanelFashion Week returns to form in the French capital. Here is everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Doug Aitken creates reflective artwork for Saint Laurent in VeniceFor the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 show, the brand’s first physical catwalk presentation since the Covid-19 pandemic began, American artist Doug Aitken created the living artwork Green Lens, on Venice's Isola della Certosa
