Mood board: Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for the Spanish leather house explored the possibilities of a fantasy wardrobe. The clothes were glamorous. ’When you wear clothing it can transform your character,’ he said backstage. ‘It’s like a song.’ The look had an opulent boyish bent. Chic black tailoring was interrupted with puffy metallic gowns sliced into half and worn like aprons: ‘I like that childlike idea of how you look in the mirror when you are trying something on…’ There were elongated satin sleeves. Fringing on shirting and tailored shorts were layers of torn organza. The black lacquered boardwalk set had lights resembling church stained-glass windows.
Best in show: There is a prevailing couture attitude this season. At Dior, the studio spent 940 hours blowing up archival Marc Bohan patterns and embroidering them in silver and crystal onto a wool coat. At Givenchy, full hand-embroidered pieces and latex shirting were a testament to artisanal savoir-faire. Louis Vuitton’s menswear show ended in a flurry of frills. Opulence is on its way! Anderson said, ‘I started looking at couture structures and things that feel like they would be on a woman’s block and interpreted them into almost superhero style.’ It loomed in the construction of sleeves, the ballooning of suede and calf bags and the scattering of jewels onto blousons and slim cable-knit jumpers.
Finishing touches: Peaked felt hats were inspired by the work of Christopher Dresser – a pivotal figure in the Aesthetic Movement. There were sequinned Mary Janes and ankle length boots. ‘Optimistic. Cute. Pretty boy. It’s more lux with cashmere, double face and something we are looking at in women’s – adding a weirdly simple thing. A suede coat with D rings on the front that is so normal but it becomes something. You trick people to feel like it is familiar but it tricks you with its texture or whatever is happening at the back.’ Anderson is feeling playful.
