Scene Setting: The show space – dressed as usual in complete darkness – had a new focal point. For A/W 2020’s cosy, chic collection, Armani had installed transparent recycled plexiglass sculptures in the centre of the runway. They represented melting ice. Around the venue, large digital screens mimicked a gentle snow shower. Armani had signalled his new commitment to sustainability with the launch of a recycled collection under the Emporio label. For his more formal line, the attitude was one of comfort and ease.
Mood board: Entitled ‘Tactile Impressions,’ the show focused on new attitudes to traditional constructions of menswear. Armani’s easy tailoring is enduring in its appeal, but how will its nuances, the relaxed put-togetherness, the warmth and grace translate in this new decade? Largely, there has been a move away from the hyper-streetwear/sports driven collections that brands have capitalised on for several seasons. There is a shift towards a new formality for a less stuffy age. Here, fluid jackets and blazers were cut like cardigans. Trousers were cuffed, Nehru jackets had a softer lean. Shawl collars were added to wraparound coats. Luxury fabrics fell around the body.
Best in show: When heavy themes dominate the headlines, clothes need to know their place and be unfussy. At Armani, the coming season brings with it a focus on the lightweight. There’s a rigour to the minimalism and a purging of stiffness, which is Mr. Armani’s métier. (He is famous for softening the suit, after all.) Velvet corduroy coveralls were worn with cropped ski jackets – cocooning puffa scarves wrapped around suiting. The look channelled a certain tactility with its mountain wools, jacquards, bouclés and velvets. It offered a wardrobe of opulent propositions. §
