Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men's
Scene setting: This was perhaps the duo’s most direct show. Away from the pageantry of insta-famous models and celebrity offspring, the presentation of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s autumn/winter 2019 collection went right back to basics – well, in a manner of speaking. At the head of the catwalk, a buzzing atelier was seen fitting suits on models and working on patterns. Some 130 looks were modelled down a black carpeted catwalk, whilst a gently-spoken British compère talked through each section. The message here was thoughtfully precise: all the cut and craftsmanship that goes into beautiful clothes should never be forgotten in favour of a disposable digital fix.
Mood board: The title of the show – Eleganza – had a rigour to it too. The majesty and grandeur of Bernini and Michelangelo and the sombreness of Sicilian confessionary looks were cited as influences. The show began with a series of sharp black looks. The first, a smart 1940s line of strong shoulders and narrow waist, soon moved into styles taken from the Dolce cannon; wide-leg pants, velvet brocade dressing gown coats, corduroy trousers and decadent eveningwear looks. The playful prints, nodding to Italian iconography, followed on from spring/summer 2019; an all over coffee bean/espresso cup print was applied to three-piece pyjamas. A silk tracksuit was covered in detailed renderings of gentleman’s canes. The paraphernalia of masculine elegance pulsated across loungewear and elaborate occasionwear inspired by the best of Byzantine interiors.
Best in show: For more than 30 years, the duo have presented a strong masculine vision rooted in unabashed opulence. They have a gilded glamour increasingly rare in our more sombre times. At Marni, Francesco Risso mirrored the wild abandon of fluid gender with fake fur, pony skin and chains. His muse is amorphous. London’s playful new-set are tearing up the rulebook, swapping going-out for staying in, deconstructing more than a shoulder or a pleated trouser. Dolce & Gabbana stands for a classicism as formal as it is flamboyant. Standout were the closing fully-sequined belted smoking robes. They had an analogue, Apollonian allure.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
‘Between punk and leather daddy’: Hannah Martin introduces her tenth jewellery collection
Hannah Martin's new jewellery collection, 'The Perfect Drug,' cuts sensual silhouettes
By Hannah Silver Published
-
First look: Lee Ufan creates a minimalist perfume bottle for Guerlain
Lee Ufan has reimagined an archival Guerlain perfume bottle to house the new scent ‘Souvenir d’Orchidée’
By India Birgitta Jarvis Published
-
Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi almost become lovers in Luca Guadagnino’s Chanel No.5 campaign: watch the film
Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi front the new Chanel No.5 campaign in a film directed by Luca Guadagnino and soundtracked by Daft Punk
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
By Scarlett Conlon Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated