Scene setting: London menswear stalwart Oliver Spencer switched up his show venue location for A/W 2019, taking guests to a lecture hall at the Royal Academy. Spencer is a savvy educator in the fields of commerce and sustainability. At times a rarity on the London Men’s schedule, he’s the mastermind of a longstanding commercially successful brand, which used eco-friendly practices long before the fashion industry woke up to its damaging impact on the environment. Spencer had alpine adventuring in mind for autumn, opening his show with sweeping birds-eye shots of mountain landscapes, with a collection of equally utilitarian clothing.
Mood board: Spencer’s models strode to the centre of the lecture theatre, where illuminated by a spotlight, their clothing was clearly visible. Lack of visibility and the inability to see the detailing of clothing is a common complaint of catwalk shows, and Spencer’s new runway location ticked all the boxes in terms of attention to detail. For A/W 2019, the spotlight illuminated oversized patchwork shirts, high-waisted corduroy trousers, smart herringbone suits and chunky knitted jumpers in alpine patterns. All in taupe, forest green, burnt orange and charcoal.
Best in show: Spencer had not just intrepid adventuring in mind, he also paid attention to the relaxing silhouettes essential for post-trek downtime. This culminated in a series of parkas evocative of dressing gowns. §
