Mood board: already in Milan, the shows have had an increased sense of cultural cross-pollination. At Marni for example, Chinese brocades were worn with English tweeds and masai stripes and, for his A/W18 collection, Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad borrowed from all sorts of free-spirited cultures, from Peru to Native America, Morocco and India. The attitude was nomadic punk. There was a spirituality and bohemianism to the collection as knitted tunics flew away from the body over slim jeans; models wore braided hair and tribal tattoos.
Best in show: the label was introduced by DIESEL to operate as a more contemporary, fashion forward line in 2007. Its collections are characterised by their irreverent, youthful spunk and luxury finish. For A/W 2018 artisanal knowhow is applied to street staples: leather jackets, bombers, military pea-coats and denim pants are embellished with inserts in multicolour Navajo carpet patterns. Detachable Navajo blanket linings appear on separates and Peruvian Baja sweaters are cut into boxy tunics. Military quilted garments are reworked and studded with Native American stones and beads. The result is a definitive uniform for new rave travellers.
Finishing touches: a clannish mood inspired the accessories too, from fringed laced-up shoes and boots echoing moccasins, to sleek Santiago styles with Western buckles. Bags and belts use stitched leather and multi stud motifs.
