Diesel Black Gold A/W 2018
Mood board: already in Milan, the shows have had an increased sense of cultural cross-pollination. At Marni for example, Chinese brocades were worn with English tweeds and masai stripes and, for his A/W18 collection, Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad borrowed from all sorts of free-spirited cultures, from Peru to Native America, Morocco and India. The attitude was nomadic punk. There was a spirituality and bohemianism to the collection as knitted tunics flew away from the body over slim jeans; models wore braided hair and tribal tattoos.
Best in show: the label was introduced by DIESEL to operate as a more contemporary, fashion forward line in 2007. Its collections are characterised by their irreverent, youthful spunk and luxury finish. For A/W 2018 artisanal knowhow is applied to street staples: leather jackets, bombers, military pea-coats and denim pants are embellished with inserts in multicolour Navajo carpet patterns. Detachable Navajo blanket linings appear on separates and Peruvian Baja sweaters are cut into boxy tunics. Military quilted garments are reworked and studded with Native American stones and beads. The result is a definitive uniform for new rave travellers.
Finishing touches: a clannish mood inspired the accessories too, from fringed laced-up shoes and boots echoing moccasins, to sleek Santiago styles with Western buckles. Bags and belts use stitched leather and multi stud motifs.
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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