Mood board: Since launching in 2009, Sacai’s men’s line has established its signature style. Designer Chitose Abe is an alumna of Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe, and their influence is clearly signposted in her work. What Abe does, however, is tailor their eccentricity into something lighter, with a more delicate appeal. For A/W 2017 she explored the sense of mashing things together – creating garments from a hybrid of ideas. Fittingly, during a season which has focussed a lot on the heroes of art and the Beat Generation, the show was soundtracked by a lecture from the American novelist William S Burroughs. In it he spoke about making film or sound recordings by cutting and editing pre-existing material. Abe had applied the very same cut-up technique – famous for its influence on Bowie – to her clothes.
Finishing touches: Merging familiar menswear classics, Abe reassembled ideas in idiosyncratic pairings. Concealed decoration was key, from the studded punk biker collars to the decorative braid applied to a gun club check blazer. Standout were the outerwear pieces in a pixelated-camo shearling. Utilitarian wool work shirts were adorned with ceremonial braids.
Best in show: The show marked the season’s second outing for The North Face. A day after Junya Watanabe featured jackets cut from its classic duffel, Sacai unveiled its own capsule collection with the American brand. Central were the oversize parkas based on one of Sacai’s best-selling designs and a twist on the MA-1 bomber jacket. The project falls under The North Face Urban Exploration – a premium concept that aims to create more trend-led utility styles.
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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This 18th-century Puglian villa has been restored with contemporary touchesThe updated stonemason's workshop is a haven of centuries-old brick and sophisticated made-in-Italy design
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
