Mood board: Since launching in 2009, Sacai’s men’s line has established its signature style. Designer Chitose Abe is an alumna of Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe, and their influence is clearly signposted in her work. What Abe does, however, is tailor their eccentricity into something lighter, with a more delicate appeal. For A/W 2017 she explored the sense of mashing things together – creating garments from a hybrid of ideas. Fittingly, during a season which has focussed a lot on the heroes of art and the Beat Generation, the show was soundtracked by a lecture from the American novelist William S Burroughs. In it he spoke about making film or sound recordings by cutting and editing pre-existing material. Abe had applied the very same cut-up technique – famous for its influence on Bowie – to her clothes.
Finishing touches: Merging familiar menswear classics, Abe reassembled ideas in idiosyncratic pairings. Concealed decoration was key, from the studded punk biker collars to the decorative braid applied to a gun club check blazer. Standout were the outerwear pieces in a pixelated-camo shearling. Utilitarian wool work shirts were adorned with ceremonial braids.
Best in show: The show marked the season’s second outing for The North Face. A day after Junya Watanabe featured jackets cut from its classic duffel, Sacai unveiled its own capsule collection with the American brand. Central were the oversize parkas based on one of Sacai’s best-selling designs and a twist on the MA-1 bomber jacket. The project falls under The North Face Urban Exploration – a premium concept that aims to create more trend-led utility styles.
-
‘I asked people to give me eight hours of their sleep’: Sophie Calle revisits her artistic experiment‘The Sleepers’ by Sophie Calle is published in English for the first time
-
The new dawn of Japanese whiskyJapanese whisky has long been the pinnacle of sophistication for connoisseurs. Our spirits writer Neil Ridley looks at this year’s best releases, and a new breed of distillers bringing innovation into the mix
-
Tour a new Sardinian hotel hidden among sand dunesHotel Le Dune Piscinas is a cosy five-star boutique resort surrounded by the untamed natural beauty of Sardinia’s Costa Verde
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
